jennylafleur | Entries tagged with z:pending:17th:charlesii

My visit to Under the Redcoat was short but very sweet! I arrived in Williamsburg at 5pm on Sunday and called

sadievale had retired from a fun day in the historic area and were in relaxation mode back at the hotel. After a very funny keystone-cop-with-cell-phones episode, Katherine found me and led me to her room. I unloaded my car and we settled down for the all important costumer's chat.

We talked about sewing and current projects, I saw the plans for her Gala dress and she helped me brain storm about the issues I'm having with my Charles bodice. It was a lovely - I had such fun!

After a little while

past_blue &

sadievale joined us and we made reservations for dinner at the King's Arms Tavern (my favorite - whoo hoo!). I got dressed in my costume and we shuttled over to the historic area.

Our candlelit dinner was lovely (despite all the annoying interruptions of 1st person interpreters & waiters with history lessons - when did they start doing that?). My game pie was yummy and the company fantastic. After stopping to chat with a family interesting in our frocks, we walked back to the hotel and stripped down to our stays for a mini cake party.

past_blue popped open a bottle of Frances Coppola "Sofia" champagne, I broke out the tavern glasses I'd brought and we feasted on mini cupcakes. All while listening to the MA soundtrack on Victoria's I-phone of course. We are such dorks!

The champagne made Victoria & Stephanie sleepy so they retired to their room and after showers Katherine and I stayed up talking for another couple of hours.

Despite the busy day and the champagne I was up early Monday morning. Which was fine since Katherine is a heavy sleeper and I take longer to wake up and get dressed. Once Katherine was up we finished getting dressed and packed, all while chatting a mile a minute of course.

Victoria &

sadievale joined us, Katherine gave her luggage to the hotel to watch and we loaded the rest in my car (Victoria & Stephanie were catching a ride home with me). A walk down to Market Square for breakfast and the quickest costumer meeting ever with

sarahnucci - but hey we did meet! Then came the shopping for Katherine's keychain, Bridget's playing cards and Victoria's brooch and it was time to say goodbye. Katherine headed for the Capitol and some last minute touristing and we walked back to the hotel, hopped in the car and headed home.

So a really lovely time! All my pics can be found here:
Under the Redcoat 2009

*waves* Just checking in to say, yes I am still alive. In fact I'm lurking on LJ, admiring your new frocks & resolutions to not go mad making new things for CosCol. I'm just not commenting much.

Another thing I'm not really doing is costuming. I worked a bit more on the Charles dress then got frustrated and so moved on to the Pimpernel, then got frustrated and moved on to some modern skirts then got bored... My self diagnosis is that I am suffering from rampant CADD.

Like I mentioned on

girliegirl32786's LJ, while a part of me is relieved that I don't have CosCol deadlines to contend with, the rest of me is wallowing in the sea of possibilities and half finished projects in the aftermath of CosCon. For some reason it's overwhelming and I'm finding inspiration hard to find.

Dear costuming fu - where are you?

This Charles Dress is turning out to be a very laborious process. I seem to spend more of my sewing time in front of the computer going through my costume files and trolling the internet for answers to my design/fitting questions. It seems counter-productive but it's not; I am figuring it out slowly but surely.

I realized the other day that this project is so hard in part because this is a totally new era/style for me. It's been so long since I ventured into completely uncharted territory like this, having been happily playing in the 18th century/Regency sandbox for a while now, that I've forgotten what it's like to start from stratch! So I've been going back to some of my "milestone" dress diaries, like my first 18th century gown, my Rohan dress and yep it was the same then. Lots of research, lots of toiles. Very long entries.

*sigh* I'm sure it will make me a better costumer in the long run but dude - I miss my already beautifully fitted and tweaked master patterns! *pouts*

So like I said before, I've been working on this frock in little pieces of time. So I'm here, there and everywhere with my journaling. Sorry about that. But since I think having a detailed diary will come in handy someday, I'm just going to write it as it happened. ( cut for those that don't care about details )

Before I post proper diary progress for my Charles II dress, I thought I would post pics of my vision for it. This is one of those interesting projects where the designing and creating process has been a very organic. I've a solid ideas for what I'm going to do with certain parts and no clue for other parts and all of it is changing as I go along. It's a fun way to costume but it wreaks havoc on the old dress diary format. Oh well.

So the fabrics. For the dress. I'm using an orange poly faille. You may recognize it from my Fire dress. I have a limited amount of fabric left but it should work. I just won't have a decadently full skirt. The lace came from an Edwardian skirt that was otherwise disintegrating and the metallic lace from Tinsel Trading in NYC. I'll use one of the gold tone silk ribbons, not sure which yet, for hair and jewelry. Not pictured is the cream china silk for the faux shift sleeves.

My silly little sketch, freshly made last night. I'm not 100% sure what I'm doing with the sleeves (I won't know until I start toiling I think) but it gives a rough idea of what I'm going for. For the bodice I'm relying heavy on the pics of the 1660s bodice in Bath plus the patterns in Hunnisett, Waugh and Arnold. My pattern is turning out to be quite the mis-mosh of sources, pattern shapes and ideas but it's mine and I like it. :>

I’m still debating the separate stays or boned bodice question. Either one is going to be a pain I think. Either way I’m going to bone it with Silly Sister reed (seems like a good project for experimenting!). The 17th century shift will be faux, but I am going to make up an off the shoulder mid-victorian – I need it for my Poe dress anyway.

Next up the nitty gritty diary...

I've come to the conclusion that this Charles dress is either going to kill me off or it's going to be one of the most amazing things I've ever made. I'm going for the later but this frock is fighting my every inch of the way.

Why is that? Why is it, as

myladyswardrobe so eloquently put it, that some gowns practically make themselves, whereas others simply don't want to be made? I haven't figured out a rhyme or reason to it but it is some small consolation that I'm not the only sufferer and that makes me feel a tiny bit better.

So after pondering why this particular frock doesn't want to be friendly (no conclusion), I made a momentous decision... *drum roll* ... to just enjoy the process. Novel thought - that!

I'm not in a race, I'm not going to Costume College, I don't have a deadline so why all this scrambling?

Somehow I've gotten into the horrible rut of costuming in a rush. I've been so focused on events, "using up" the stash, holding off CADD, feeling guilty work on my stuff when I have commission work to do or just plain finishing projects that I've lost the joy of doing. Which is silly because honestly my favorite part isn't the dressing up (the fun of that is all about the friends who dress up with me!), it's the creating. So why am I raising such a fuss about this bodice not wanting to play nice and trying to figure out the shortest possible route to the end?

Costuming In A Rush (TM)

Sometimes I wonder at my absurd ability to complicate the simple and to create my own drama. *sigh*

All that to say I've been working on my Charles dress in little spurts of time, as work and headaches/brain wattage will allow this week. The frock is still playing dirty but my change in perspective has me enjoying the challenge a bit more. Hey I’m actually getting work done on it too!

Well I guess that is enough of a break from the toileing... back to work so I'll post pics next time!

My Memorial weekend was fun. I did a huge amount of nothing, which after reading my FL makes me feel like a bit of a slacker but I really enjoyed it! Well except for the day long migraine on Monday. That kinda sucked. Stupid weather.

I did start work on the Charles II dress, although I didn't get very far with it, thanks in large part to the headache thing. My plan has been to drape a pattern based on the scaled patterns from Jean Hunnisett. So I scanned the page, enlarged it in MS Pubisher, printed it out (pink paper ohh!), taped the pices together and traced out the pattern on a length of old sheet.

Alas all that work and my useal method of draped pattern greatness wouldn't work. Not even close to working. Seriously, how the heck is one supposed to drape a pattern *for oneself* for an off the shoulder garment?!! *razen frazen*

Narcissa has been absolutely no help (we don't see eye-to-eye on shoulders at the best of times) so in desperation (and a stubborn determination not to spend $30 on the Reconstructing History pattern) I scoured the pattern bins for any and all off the shoulder patterns. My thought is that if I can get a little assitance with the patterning and fit of the shoulder area right I can redraft seams and make up the rest easily. I came up with a few options, the best of which is probably the Civil War ballgown.

Then I was talking to Mom and she suggested trying on her old ballgown bodice and use that as a working toile. My Mom is so smart! So I braved the storage under the stairs (not for the faint of heart!) and found the bodice. Now I just need to dig around in the historic pattern bin and make sure she still has the pattern for that bodice. Mom is very spotty about documenting her costuming so hopefully I can figure out what pattern she used and find it in the stash. If not I’ll start toiling with one of the patterns I’ve already pulled out.

If I can shake these headaches that is. *sigh*

I am quite tantalizing close to finishing the binding on my blue 18th century stays, only about two inches to go. I've been working on them off and on (as the wrists allow) for a week now and I'm SO ready for them to be done! They do look good though. For once in my life I don't have a deadline to finish them by (having worn them to CosCon sans binding) so I decided to revel in tiny stitches and take my time. Part of me is regretting that decision as I'm totally over working on the project but the other part sees my fine needlework and *squees* inside.

I do have progress pics but have mis-laid the USB cord so I can't get them off my camera. Moo.

So what is on the agenda in the coming months? Sadly I am not going to make it to Costume College this year, *weeps*, so after CosCon I've been feeling a little rudderless in the sea of costuming possibilities. I have lots of half-finished projects laying around that need attention but honestly most of them I don't care a fig about at the moment. Since I don't really have costume deadlines and events until the fall I've decided to work on only what I feel a burning desire to work on this summer. Should be fun really.

Top of the agenda are the Charles II dress, new Regency stays (mine "broke" at CosCon) and finishing the Pimpernel revamp. That list should keep me busy if not completely out of trouble for a little while anyway... :P

Oh yes and my other project this week has been updating my website (as the wrists allow). All the diaries and event albums should be updated now. Man was I behind!

I spent yesterday alternately beading

dancinseamstres's train and posting pics of my NYC trip. I had a few silly moments, like no pics of

elizabethsdress or at the American Girl Store but overall I'm happy.

I've posted the pics and links in the appropriate entries, you can start here: http://jennylafleur.livejournal.com/345349.html

What you really want to see is the Loot (TM) though, right? :>
( follow me... )

The Charles II Project... ah yes.

I was going to say no, I really was. Problem is that I'd already given serious consideration to making a 17th century gown as part of my 2009 to-do list. I'd even gone so far as starting to research, combing the stash for fabrics and making some jewelry. Then I decided to put the project aside for another year for, I don't know, some stupid practical reason.

Then the Great Charles II Project (

charlesii) was lobbied at Costume College08. Suddenly the vision of 20+ of my favorite costumers all running around in 17th century dresses and me sitting alone in a corner was un-bearable. I was in. Practicality is way over rated when there are pretties to be had!

I decided to pick a courtier rather than a mistress to portray, since the possibility of me making the "official" events is in the 10% range. I chose Frances Jennings, Lady Hamilton, Future Countess of Tyrconnel. She was the older sister of Sarah Jennings, future Duchess of Marlborough (a figure in history I love reading about). Frances was known at court for her fair hair (perhaps some blond highlights are in order!), her beauty (her nickname was "La Belle Jennings") and virtue (rare at court), and was Maid of Honour to the Duchess of York. She had rather a sad ending in life, widowed three times and died a pauper but the dress I want to make (1665-1675) would have been from her "happy days".

So I begin...

Spent some time yesterday scanning in patterns and pics from Cut of Women's Clothes and Hunnisett. I need to enlarge them and print them out so I can get started on the toiling. After staring at my books before I went to bed every night this week I feel like I'm finially getting a grasp on how these frocks went together. That combined with all the examining of and peppering

koshka_the_cat with questions about her court dress at CoCo (her dress being a fossilized version of the 17th century court gown) light is dawning on this project. Yay!

I read a cool book on Einstein last year, talking about how he developed his theories with his "thought experiments". It was cool because I realized that I do something similar. I need to make a costume first in my head before I can do anything. First I design it in my head, then I have to pick it part and figure out how it goes together in my head THEN I start the mock-up process. It's especially true for a new style, new era of gown. Sometimes The "thought design/construction" is enough and I never do get around to making the costume. I've gotten it out of my system.

Wow, rabbit-trail... okay... anyway...

I'm thinking of going with something like these for the design. The fabric will be the rest of the bolt of orange faille I used for the Fire costume. I haven't decided if I want to spilt open the skirt front or not or what exactly is going on with my sleeves. I'm getting there though...

While I was out and about today I stopped downtown to take some pics of the apple blossoms. It became overcast and cold as soon as I got there (of course) so my pics didn't turn out as well as I hoped. Perhaps I'll try again tomorrow. I love the apple blossoms downtown though, it's one of my favorite parts about living here. So pretty!

It was an awesome mail day today though!

First my fur muff came. I really wanted a fur muff for Coaching Day and now I have one - yay Ebay. The lining needs to be replaced but overall it's in good shape. Not bad for $16, aye? Now I just need to snag one for Bridget...

Then my Restoration earrings came. I adore them! They look so lovely and they have such a nice weight to them (they're glass). I think I'll be wearing them for more than just the Restoration gown... like for Easter! :P

I'm still sick, although starting to feel better. I'm just super tired still and can't seem to get my body on a normal sleeping pattern. Jet lag and a time change are not a good mix for me! Still I'm tired of just wondering around the house feeling bad and am trying to get something (anything!) done despite my sniffles. Enter costuming...

Pics of my finished 17th century necklace. I know it's super simple but I'm totally in love with it. The orange silk ribbon might have something to do with it of course.

In other news... I couldn't take the four walls anymore on Monday and went out to help Tina fabric shop for her turban. I had a great time, probally overdid a bit, but I needed the time with a good friend. While at Jo-Anns I found a pretty light weight funky green-yellow cotton for $2 a yard - score! When I got home I realized that the fabric matched the vintage beads I bought in San Diego - sweet! Do I know what I like or what?! I'm thinking a new Regency day gown is in order. Trimmed with red.

You know I really shouldn't get on Etsy when I'm sick and can't sleep - it always gets me into trouble! But really how could I resist when they were almost half the cost of the ones on Ebay?

Hopefully these will nicely match the necklace I just finished for my Restoration gown. I'll share pics once the glue has dried...

I've been on a 17th century kick the last few weeks, for which I blame

bauhausfrau - evil woman!. It started with her shoes and ideas for a mistresses of Charles II tableau at Costume Con '09. Then on a whim I bought a CD of Purcell music from Amazon. Next I found an audio book of Antonia Frasier’s Love & Louis: the women of in the life of the sun king at the library and have been listening to that all week. Yesterday while browsing Border's (for something else) I picked up another CD, Grandes Eaux Musicales de Versailles: music of Louis XIII & Louis XIV. I got home to discover that it was actually a few dollars cheaper at Borders than online, pretty cool.

None of this is helping my resolution to not drop all my other projects and make a 17th century gown, like right now. No, I'm not suffering from costuming ADD, not at all! *rolls eyes*

The former CD (listening to it as I type) is fun. The booklet is wonderfully pretty and the pieces remind me a lot of the music in the 1970's Three Musketeers. I'm really loving my Purcell CD as well. There are a few choral type pieces that get on my nerves after a while but on the whole I really like it. The recording of Dido's Lament (one of my favorite arias) is very nice indeed.

The Frasier book was very interesting, as it traced not just the mistresses and flings of Louis XIV but all the influential women in his life, including his mother, daughters and daughters-in-law. I didn't realize until I got to end that it was an abridged version I'd been listening too so now of course I want the "real" version. Amazon has a download version that isn't too pricey... someday I really must break down and buy some form of portable MP3 player.

I'm thinking I should read a book on Charles II next - any recommendations? Also did you go see Moliere last night

bauhausfrau? How was it?

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Jenny La Fleur

adventures in costuming

UTR slumber party

the sea of possibilities

the pain of new

the joy of toiles

the plan... for now

why do I do what I do?

progress of a sort

checking in

NYC: the loot

Charles II Project

a spring day

the beauty of simple pearls

Etsy strikes again

setting my sights on the 17th century

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July 2014

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