Jenny La Fleur

Man I was on a roll today! It’s hard not to be highly motivated about the project after a weekend watching L’Anglaise et le Duc and chatting about costumes with elegant_musings I guess. :>

pocket:

I actually stitched on the binding last night. I stayed up way too late but I did finish it. Today I sewed on the waistband and gave the pocket a good pressing. So that means the pocket is all finished. *throws confetti*. Yay, the first thing checked of the list…

false rump:

Ah yes, the rump. I needed to take some of the stuffing out but I didn’t want to mess with the waistband (which had been done by hand). So, I worked from the other end. I used a seam ripper to make a 2-3” hole in the bottom seam. I then removed what turned out to be quite a bit of stuffing. When I originally stuffed the rump, I was going on the assumption that the originals, made of cork, would have been tightly packed. They obviously weren’t using the Wingeo pattern.

Eventually I managed to get the rump to a size I’m happy with. It’s so hard to tell without having the stays and gown on and everything. I basted up the holes I’d made, in case I need to tweak it later on. For now though, the rump is also complete and off my “to-do” list. *throws more confetti*

stays:

I also worked on the stays today. First I measured the overlap on the sleeves and trimmed. I then pinned and stitched the top half of the binding, again using a stab stitch. I’m really into that stitch now. I just have the sleeve eyelets and the bottom binding to go… almost there! :>

I’ve finished cutting out a round of 18th century things. I probably should have cut the shift and gown toile while I was at it but I’m tired and I needed to clean up my mess. Mom was giving me that look. I think she wants to move the furniture around again unhindered by my sewing mess. I can cut those out later, once this lot is sewn up.

I decided this morning to just ditch the rose fabric. It was pretty but not worth the effort. It would have been a horror to work with and as much as I hated to have wasted my time and money by ditching it, I think I’ve saved myself several nasty headaches. Mom was very nice about it, relented and let me use the green fabric after all. There should be enough for her project anyway as I didn’t use up that much. I’m so glad as I really like that fabric. I really love the color.

So I spent, what seemed like forever, cutting the interlining shapes, transferring the boning pattern and basting the outer and interlining layers together. Tedious does not begin to describe my morning! Well it’s done now and the stays are all ready to go. I need to go buy the cable ties before I can start though, to make sure I make the channels the right size.

I also cut out my under petticoat. I used an old homespun red check I’ve had for ages. It’s not going to show so it doesn’t really matter what the fabric is and this seemed a good way to use the bolt up. At first I wasn’t sure how full to make it. The two sets of directions (one • two) I found online say 3-4, 45” wide panels. I tried draping two panels on Narcissia to see if that would be enough. That looked a bit skimpy so I ended up with three panels instead. I'm really just winging the petticoat and hoping for the best. Oh well! I took a picture of the draped and roughly pleated drape anyway, mostly to show the size of the rump. Yeah, I'm thinking that is going to be too big…

Lastly, I cut out the pocket layers. I put three layers in a stack (the embroidered one on top as my pattern) and used a rotary cutter to cut them all at the same time. I had to change the shape a little to eliminate the blue blob and better center the design. The embroidery hoop whacked out the fabric a bit. You can still see a little corner of the blob but that will be hidden under the binding. So that is all ready to go when my Wooded Hamlet order arrives.

By the way, how long do WH orders usually take? I forgot to ask and I’m wondering when it is reasonable for me to start haunting the mail box… :>

I finished the crewelwork on the pocket today. *throws confetti* I am feeling too lazy at the moment to iron and take pictures of it to show you though. I'll do that tomorrow.

I've been working on very on & off on it until yesterday. On my way home from a pleasant day out with elegant_musings, I got a flat tire. Why I always get flats when I'm by myself I don't know. Luckily I had my cell phone, AAA card and my pocket with me. I'd brought it along to show off...errr ...I mean show to elegant_musings - so glad I did! I hadn't brought all my threads along but I got as much as I could done with the colors I did have (had an hour and 20 minute wait in the car) before having to be towed home, in a heavy rain storm no less. Such fun! Anyway...

I finished up the embroidery tonight with Nefret curled up next to me on the couch. She is too adorable, especially when she is in a cuddling mood. *big 'ole grin* I love my kitty!

bad news: An evening in the freezer didn't really do anything for the blob. I couldn't get much more off the fabric.

good news: I should be able to cut the pocket down so that the blob is gone or incorporated into the seam allowance unseen.

My blond moment could have been much worse. I still feel very stupid and mad at myself over the whole incident. *sigh*

Yay, pocket picces! All the pics I take come out too dark. There is less contrast in person. Maybe I'll try shooting some pics outside... after this heat-wave is over. You can tell it's 4th of July weekend - it's wicked hot out!

While at hanging out at Borders the other day, I found the very cool Anchor Book of Crewelwork. I saw this while in London but like a dope I didn't by it. It turns out to be exactly what I need. While I have lots of books with stitch diagrams in them, I've found I need a book with pictures of actual crewelwork. I can't figure out how to use the stitches to best advantage on my own. Not enough imagination I guess. The Anchor book is perfect, lots of pics of crewelwork and even some patterns in the back.

Anyway... I'm really happy with the pocket so far. I think I have a very cunning plan for that center carnation too. I haven't actually tried it yet though... There is a carnation in the Anchor book that I like a lot that I think I can do it with one shade of yellow. I'm going to try mimicking it. If that doesn't work... well I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.

I'm also going to add a few more bugs to the design. The bee and butterfly look lonely. *smirk* In reality I just like the bugs. I think they are fun. I'll be adding a second tiny bee and a little snail, both from the Anchor book. Can you tell I am having way too much fun with this? *wheeeeeee*

Oh yes and a pic of that raised-weave fabric I bought the other day. My little fingers are included for scale. Lastly, a pic of the cotton stripe fabric for the 18th century gown. Somehow I missed it when I posted everything else.

I had planned to be a good girl today and work on one of the LOTR gowns, either mine or Bridget’s, it didn’t matter as they both needed attention. So, how did I spend my day? Embroidering my pocket of course. *slaps hand* Actually, I haven’t been feeling well today so a quiet day curled up with embroidery and movies was a good thing.

I’m pleased with the results of my labor. The test piece doesn’t look like much I know but it was instructive. I found things that didn’t work and things that did. The worst news is that I can’t use the salmon thread from Liberty. It actually needlepoint yarn and it’s too thick. Blah. I’m a bit stuck on what to do now. I didn’t buy another color in two shades, except green. I really think I need two shades for the carnation. Frankly, I’m not going to worry too much about it at the moment. I will work the rest of the embroidery first and do the carnations last. That way if I run out of any of the other colors it will only mean 2 long drives to Manassas, not three or four. :> It’s probably just as well, I’m liking the idea of a yellow carnation instead at this point. :>

My testing ruled out several stitches I was planning on using. Some didn’t work or I didn’t like them. I actually ripped out a lot of the test work. I went back and looked at my great grandmothers work again. Why I didn’t look at them before I tested I don’t know. I came up with some more ideas but I was ready to just start and not waste more time and thread on testing.

After dinner I transferred the pattern onto the pocket and began work on it. I have stayed up way too late thoroughly enjoying myself. I’m very happy with what I have done so far. The little blue flowers are my favorite. They are a buttonhole stitch. Aren’t they cute? *grin* Embroidery is so addictive! It took much will power to put it aside tonight for LJ-ing and sleeping.

I'm so glad LJ is behaving again... I was started to feel a bit of "withdrawl" coming on...

I stopped by the knitting store yesterday but they didn't have anything appropriate for crewel. They weren't terribly helpful actually. I wish people would stop looking at me like I was from Pluto when I mention crewelwork. Really it's bad enough that no one carries it without making me feel slightly like a freak. *sigh*

The yarn lady did recommend the needlecraft shop in Manassas, which I had already found online. Having *nothing* better to do today, I drove the hour to Manassas to see what I could find there. I’m not obsessed or anything… ah right.

Finally, success! I have crewel thread… yay!! There were lots of yummy things in the shop but I stayed focused and just bought the thread I needed. The shopowner was very helpful too. In the end I bought 10 colors, making a total of 12 with the ones I already had. I tried taking a pic tonight but it didn’t come out well so I’ll try again in the daylight. I'm very happy with my colors, I can't wait to get started! *Jenny does a happy dance*

Really things should not be this hard though…

I'm having a run of bad luck with my pockets today. We are having issues with the new scanner so I haven't been able to finalize my pattern. Technology - bah! I did locate a rose I liked so that is one good thing. I have no idea where I got it (so bad about documenting finds online) but I love the shape and the way it is shaded.

I made the trek this morning to buy the wool thread I need. No soap. I had only been in that little cross-stitch shop down-town once and thought I remembered seeing wool threads there. My memory was faulty and it turned out to be a silk/wool blend. I could use that I suppose but it was quite expensive and I rather have my heart set on wool. Besides I wasn’t awed by the colors. There wasn't a big selection and some were very bright colors. Not passable for 18th century dyes. Of course it could have just been the poor lighting. The shop recommended trying the local kitting shop. I went there, or rather tried to. The street was closed for some college thing. I didn't feel like dealing with it so I'll go another day. In the mean time I'm trying not to get too depressed. I really don't want to order the threads online!

More bad news awaited me at home. Mum promised me a few weeks ago that I could use some pure linen that was given to her ages ago. I finally got around to locating it in the stash only to discover it's not white. Man! I really had my heart set on a set of pure white underthings. In the past (and ignorance) I have had the less historic unbleached muslin. The linen is lovely, a pretty buttery ivory but I wanted white. *choked sob*

I don't need very much for a pocket so I think I will just go to G Streets and splurge on some white. Maybe I'll use the ivory linen for my underpetticoat, linen is still more fun than white cotton... or a cute little sheath dress for the summer would be fun too. *evil grin*

I began serious research on my next project today. I’m so bad! I was trying to keep focused on the LOTR gowns until they were completely finished but I can’t stand it anymore…

My next project will be a late 18th century gown, probably 1780s. An 18th century outfit has been on "my list" for 3 years now but keeps getting pushed aside. This is the year to finally do it. It’s big project as I have to start from scratch; shift, stays, petticoats – everything. I want to take my time too. I don’t, as yet, have a clear idea of what I want for the gown. There are too many variations to choose from and I love them all. I think I need two frocks, maybe seven. :> I’m not really worrying about it at the moment as the underwear must come first anyway.

I’m going to start with a crewelwork pocket. A set of two would be fun but I’m going to start out with one. I have not actually done crewelwork but my Mom has and I have managed to collect some very good books on the subject. It’s basically embroidery but in a different medium, wool. Mom says wool is easier to work with than cotton. Maybe that is why it is more expensive. :>

Today I started looking for designs. I know I want a large flower, perhaps a carnation or rose. The design must have roses and bees somewhere. I would also like a Phoenix bird but I’m having a hard time finding a good pic of what I want. I want something very stylized, perhaps a Chinese one. I love the notion of the Phoenix, a bird that rises from it’s ashes. What I really wanted to find today were pics of period pockets, to build up some references for how designs are typically laid out on pockets, what stitches were used for stems ect.. I only found one actual pocket, on an auction site. It was very discouraging. That gives me three sources (online pic, Costume Close-up and Rocking Horse Farm #185). Any suggestions to find others?

One very cool site I stumbled across in my googleing was Reine de Centfeuilles’s Koyto jacket repro . I seem to recall having been to the site a few years ago but I had not seen that. Can anyone say WOW! *wiping drool off keyboard* Man, now I want one! :P