Nessa Dorma & the Pet en l'air
Apr. 15th, 2007 07:45 pm


It's over! The week of sewing madness is over! I did not plan it this way, I really didn't but I have to be flexible with my work and unfortunately everyone (including CCFred) decided this was the week to schedule things. Most times an hour away no less. I had no back-up plan so I had to finish everything this week. I have such a love/hate relationship with deadlines! It was all good though and God was SO gracious.
( the night of Nessa Dorma )



















So without further ado my outfit! I’m quite pleased with it. Little things bug (the waist bunches as I didn’t fit it with the false rump, silly me) but the overall effect was what I was going for. The pleats in back need more fullness to hang correctly. Still not bad considering my fabric restraints and my first attempt at the sacque style. I need a totally different cap but it’s on the list already. I wanted a shorter petticoat but it came out a shorter that I intended. I think it shrunk when I dyed it. It looks cute though, very Galerie des Modes, so I may just leave it as is.




Stealth shots B took as I was getting undressed in the mess that was my room. Well actually still is the mess that is my room, I haven't picked up yet. :P Both B and I had to sew ourselves into our bodices, having run out of time to sew on the hooks and eyes. Also a glimse of my outfit sans bows. It's the bows that really make it I think, certianlly the bit that makes it go with the necklace. :> Found the ribbon at Jo-Anns of all places, on Friday night. I really was shocked - it was perfect!







My stays! I’m very pleased with them, they give a better shape than my last I think and are quite comfortable, now that they are broken in. Lacing all the way down takes more time to lace but it does give better lower back support. It’s something I will definitely do on all my future stays. Love the silk - not the most practical of fabrics but so fun to stroke! :>
So onto the next week's sewing projects! Yes the madness doesn't end quite yet. I am doing a reverse strip-tease/fashion show for a local DAR group on Saturday and am determined to have a proper shift and that robe volante. Both are easy projects (I think) and if they don't get done, no worries but I'm going to try. If you haven't figured it out already, I AM insane!! *LOL*
stay breaking
Apr. 9th, 2007 11:39 pmWe have sewing progress! The back of the pet en l'air is pleated and stitched down to the lining. I made up a second toile so I could work on the front tweaking. Looking pretty good so I started on the sleeves. I have one pinned in but have reached my curfew. I've learned not to do anything involving a sewing machine after 11pm, it's never a pretty thing. I do have pics but well the camera is in the other room. :P
Ack, my stays definitely need some breaking in. Good news is they give me the pretty shape I want, bad news is they give me a tummy ache. I seem to recall my old stays doing that at first. Forgot about that part. Truth is I really just need to get rid of my too big tummy for the 18th century cone shape... maybe I should take the time to go the gym tomorrow after all... :>
Ack, my stays definitely need some breaking in. Good news is they give me the pretty shape I want, bad news is they give me a tummy ache. I seem to recall my old stays doing that at first. Forgot about that part. Truth is I really just need to get rid of my too big tummy for the 18th century cone shape... maybe I should take the time to go the gym tomorrow after all... :>
behold the stays!
Apr. 6th, 2007 12:51 am







Wow my friend's list sure has been quiet this week! Not that I've been doing much to fill the silence... just refreshing my page a lot. :P So for the rest of you to-busy-to-sew-lj-refreshers out there - behold the stays!! As you can see I have unashamedly pinched the line of seaming from the pattern Katherine just used but really it's too pretty not to pinch!
I'm very pleased with the stays, they are pretty, MA-ish and fit very well. Unfortunately I’m not pleased with any of the pics I've managed to take on them on me. So you get Narcissa as a model until I can try again on me. :> Oh yes and a little preview of how the outfit will look with the quilted petticoat - yummy!
Worked a bit on the pet en l'air today. I'm happy so far, the side view looks perfect. That center box pleat is bugging me though. It's plenty full at the top but looks kinda skimpy at the bottom. Must mess with it a bit more.
pet en l'air issues
Mar. 28th, 2007 11:57 pm


My stays are done - yay! I took pics for you but they came out horribly so I will try again tomorrow. The stays are pretty though - I'm very pleased!!
I started work on my bleu outfit today. It went okay. Well, slightly less than that actually. The plan is to make a version of the above outfit from Marie Antoinette. In short a bleu pet en l'air. After much research and trying to wrap my head around the whole sack thing, I printed out some inspiration/reference for my walls and went to work.
I cut out a rough lining from my basic anglaise pattern, trimming away the front and adding a false stomacher piece. I then began on the outer toile, which is when the slightly less than okay part of the day kicked in. I messed about with the back pleats for a while before concluding that my toile fabric was just not wide enough (fashion fabric is a bit wider luckily). So I decided to move on the front and mess with pleating later. The first draping totally didn't work and the second only a bit better.
I can't figure out how you can possibly use one piece of fabric from stomacher front to back/side seam without darts or tucks or another seam. There is just too much area to cover and without something to release the stress it buckles and wrinkles most un attractively. I'm not seeing evidence of tucks or darts though, except were the front bodice and skirt are cut separately (which is not how the MA or Arnold ones I'm copying are done). Am I missing something?
I'm not sure I can make the pet en l'air anyway as I have a very limited amount of fabric to play with. This sack thing really sucks up the yardage! I don't know. It's so much easier to skimp when you know what you are doing, which I don't. I'm hoping the whole thing will look better in the morning 'cause right now it's just not giving me warm fuzzies...
happy things
Mar. 28th, 2007 09:14 amSo totally belated but...
Happy Birthday
girliegirl32786!!!!
In more happy news *drum roll* - the binding is done!! Just four more eyelets and the stays are done!
Happy Birthday
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In more happy news *drum roll* - the binding is done!! Just four more eyelets and the stays are done!
Houston, we have progress!!
Mar. 26th, 2007 09:44 amIt was a crazy day yesterday so I didn't get much done on the stays but I did work on them (in between church services since I had to hang out to do the announcements and just before bed to wind down). The join of The Mistake (TM) is now covered in binding and one third of the top is done. I have another busy day today but I'm going to try and take some personal time and get it finished - at least the binding if not the eyelets...
Since I have been so remiss at taking pics this week I'm just going to wait and show you the stays in all their finished glory. Because I'm just mean that way. *evil laugh*
Since I have been so remiss at taking pics this week I'm just going to wait and show you the stays in all their finished glory. Because I'm just mean that way. *evil laugh*
I finished the bottom binding of the stays today - yay! I also pieced under the arm where I cut it wrong. Some binding to cover up the join and no one will ever know my mistake - another yay!
So just the top binding and the last 4 eyelets. Should go quickly now that the wretched tabs are done (I must remember to use less tabbing in B's stays or I shall go mad)... almost there. :>
So just the top binding and the last 4 eyelets. Should go quickly now that the wretched tabs are done (I must remember to use less tabbing in B's stays or I shall go mad)... almost there. :>
Another day, yet another headache. *sigh* I hate spring, all the funky weather changes is what brings them on. I had a reprieve yesterday, which was lovely though. Anyway I decided to give up the pretence of being productive or doing something useful with my day and spent my Thursday napping, mending and working on my stays.
Moving along quite nicely with the stays. I'm hoping to have them finished by Saturday so I can devote the day to toiling the bleu outfit. So far the basting is done, the faux curves are done, the straps are trimmed to the right size and I'm over half way done with the bottom binding - yay! I'm so glad I did the curved faux seaming, it looks so pretty. The more binding I do the more excited I am - huzzah for pretty undies! :>
Moving along quite nicely with the stays. I'm hoping to have them finished by Saturday so I can devote the day to toiling the bleu outfit. So far the basting is done, the faux curves are done, the straps are trimmed to the right size and I'm over half way done with the bottom binding - yay! I'm so glad I did the curved faux seaming, it looks so pretty. The more binding I do the more excited I am - huzzah for pretty undies! :>
headaches, tabs & red shoes
Mar. 21st, 2007 09:47 amAnother day, another headache so I stumbled through yesterday doing quiet work. Actually got quite a bit done in the real-life world of site updating, paperwork and such. Even folded my laundry!
It was a good mail day too, a big MK order (the new quarter just started fun!) and my Zappos shoes. Surprisingly enough I actually like the Steve Madden, ie cheaper, better except I'm not sure I want shiny leather. They sure are comfy though and they are red... *ponders*
I did sew 3 tabs last night, so that is something. Almost to the side seam so almost a third of the way done with the bottom - yay! I always do the bottom first because after all the tabs the top seems a breeze! :>
My head seems to be clearer this morning - let's hope it stays that way!
It was a good mail day too, a big MK order (the new quarter just started fun!) and my Zappos shoes. Surprisingly enough I actually like the Steve Madden, ie cheaper, better except I'm not sure I want shiny leather. They sure are comfy though and they are red... *ponders*
I did sew 3 tabs last night, so that is something. Almost to the side seam so almost a third of the way done with the bottom - yay! I always do the bottom first because after all the tabs the top seems a breeze! :>
My head seems to be clearer this morning - let's hope it stays that way!
tabs - yuck!
Mar. 19th, 2007 10:22 pm


I had a massive headache today so I didn't go out tonight like I wanted to - blah! Once dinner was settled in my tummy and the meds kicked in I managed to work on my stays a bit though.
I was hoping not to baste the tabs before I attached the binding but they were not being friendly at all. So I'm basting the tabs with a very loose and sloppy buttonhole stitch (love that stitch, so handy!). The binding is going much better now so the extra effort is rewarded - yay! I must say I'm totally digging the matching binding/lining on the inside - so cool!
The clear majority is for curve faux seams, which is nice because that is what I was leaning towards myself. If I'd had the time I would have attempted a stays pattern with that shape (so pretty) but with my deadline restraints I couldn't mess with a new pattern. Much better to perfect the stays I've been wearing for the couple of years and make my new "bleu outfit". You know the one I have changed my mind 4 times about...

I'll give the finial grand plan soon (let us just say MA!) but for now a pic of my new cheeptrim trims for the outfit. I can hardly contain myself, I'm so excited to put this outfit together. Just have to get past the stays and pannier first... *rubs hands together*
cleaning up the stays
Mar. 19th, 2007 10:54 am



Overall a productive sewing weekend, although I didn't get much done on Sunday. The day was spent mostly on sleeping, church and a cup of tea with a friend - all of which I thoroughly enjoyed. It felt like a true day of rest, which a Sunday should be. I did "clean up" the side seams of my stays (whipped stitched them down on the inside), discovering that I had cut the back piece wrong and it doesn't meet under the arm. Annoying as I'm NOT re-cutting the back piece with 22 eyelets finished. So I'm fudging, not sure how yet but fudging none the less.
I also tacked down the horizontal boning (kept wanting to curve up and stretch out my sateen lining) and got the binding tacked along the seams. Still trying to decide what I want to do with my front "faux" seams. Show the actual line of boning (straight down) or more late century in cut (curved). *ponders*
a day of eyelets & photo updates
Mar. 17th, 2007 10:49 pm



A very nice day... spent most of working on my eyelets. It isn't everyday I'm in the mood to work on eyelets so I thought I'd take advantage. So despite a very unwelcome headache the score is 22 eyelets down, 4 to go!
I laced-up for the first time a few minutes ago and am very pleased. The top (where the straps lace) needs to be trimmed but other than that I'm happy. The slight alterations I made seem to be just right. Adding more eyelets so the lacing is all the way down the back feels good, much more lower lumbar support that way... not sure how comfortable they will be to drive in however. Cars are SO not made for corset wearing!
I also updated the RCHS website with some very over due photos. Dennis took some nice pics of me dancing in my Bee gown in Dec - yay dress-in-action shots! *sigh* Is it vain to say 'wow my hair looked GOOD that night'?! *wink* Overall Federalist is just a good style for me, besides being very fun to dance in. I really need to wear it more often... *evil grin*
update on the Jenny
Mar. 15th, 2007 10:57 pmWow it's been a whole week since I posted - didn't realize it had been that long. Not much to report on the costuming front, hence the lack of posts. I've gotten a few more eyelets done on the stays but it's going slowly. If only I didn't love hand bound eyelets so!
Today I was with RCHS at the local Christian school for their colonial days program. It was fun; we taught the 4th graders to dance. Took us a few hours but we got through all of them. We also did a demo dance (Ruffy Tuffy). It's been a while since I've done an RCHS event and it felt good to get all dolled up in the 18th century garb, even if I did get hot towards the end of the session (silly weather).
I went to Tina's for tea afterwards and we had a nice chat about costuming, and of course generally solving the world’s problems. :>
My Cheeptrims.com order came today. I'm happy with my rococo trim (trying to decide if it's too shiny and needs to be over-dyed) and thrilled with my lace. It's not *perfect* for 18th century but it overwhelmingly holds up to the 3 foot rule and I just plain like it. Yay - now I have 30 yards of lace to play with, instead of little pieces to fudge with. Trimming, flounces and other fussy things here I come...
(
yummyone, I'll ship your stuff tomorrow or Saturday. I'll pop you an e-mail once it’s on the way.)
Oh yes my embroidery class last week! It went well - everyone seemed to enjoy it and I was pleased how eager they were to jump right in and try it out. It was more work than I thought it would be though. It took quite a bit of brain wattage to teach, help and track everyone's progress. They only stitched for about 1.5 hours but it felt much longer than that - I was exhausted! Definitely learned some things that will be help if I teach that CC class. We are talking about doing another open house in the Fall so I can test out a few more ideas then... I'm a glutton for punishment you know. :>
Today I was with RCHS at the local Christian school for their colonial days program. It was fun; we taught the 4th graders to dance. Took us a few hours but we got through all of them. We also did a demo dance (Ruffy Tuffy). It's been a while since I've done an RCHS event and it felt good to get all dolled up in the 18th century garb, even if I did get hot towards the end of the session (silly weather).
I went to Tina's for tea afterwards and we had a nice chat about costuming, and of course generally solving the world’s problems. :>
My Cheeptrims.com order came today. I'm happy with my rococo trim (trying to decide if it's too shiny and needs to be over-dyed) and thrilled with my lace. It's not *perfect* for 18th century but it overwhelmingly holds up to the 3 foot rule and I just plain like it. Yay - now I have 30 yards of lace to play with, instead of little pieces to fudge with. Trimming, flounces and other fussy things here I come...
(
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Oh yes my embroidery class last week! It went well - everyone seemed to enjoy it and I was pleased how eager they were to jump right in and try it out. It was more work than I thought it would be though. It took quite a bit of brain wattage to teach, help and track everyone's progress. They only stitched for about 1.5 hours but it felt much longer than that - I was exhausted! Definitely learned some things that will be help if I teach that CC class. We are talking about doing another open house in the Fall so I can test out a few more ideas then... I'm a glutton for punishment you know. :>
eyelets are begun
Mar. 8th, 2007 09:33 pmToday's stays progress: 4 eyelets.
So 4 down, 26 to go. *sigh* I've decided to go ahead with the pink seam binding, but in the narrower width. I think it looks cool and I figure I can always take it off if I change my mind. :>
Hancocks was have a marvelous *sale today so I am now the proud owner of 50% off interfacing (for pattern making), 50% off bias tape (for two pairs of stays), 50% off tiny silver sequins (once I take them off the trim - for the one-of-these-days 18th century ball gown), $.99 patterns for my Fire costume skirt (rubs hand in glee), and a swatch for the possible robe volante to ponder with. I also made an order with cheeptrims.com for rococo trim and lace my bleu jacket ensemble. :>
I haven't done any prep work for the embroidery lesson Saturday so I guess that is tomorrow's project... in between eyelets of course. :P
*for you local folks the sale runs through Sun *wink*
So 4 down, 26 to go. *sigh* I've decided to go ahead with the pink seam binding, but in the narrower width. I think it looks cool and I figure I can always take it off if I change my mind. :>
Hancocks was have a marvelous *sale today so I am now the proud owner of 50% off interfacing (for pattern making), 50% off bias tape (for two pairs of stays), 50% off tiny silver sequins (once I take them off the trim - for the one-of-these-days 18th century ball gown), $.99 patterns for my Fire costume skirt (rubs hand in glee), and a swatch for the possible robe volante to ponder with. I also made an order with cheeptrims.com for rococo trim and lace my bleu jacket ensemble. :>
I haven't done any prep work for the embroidery lesson Saturday so I guess that is tomorrow's project... in between eyelets of course. :P
*for you local folks the sale runs through Sun *wink*
stay seams
Mar. 7th, 2007 05:26 pm

I worked a little on my stays today. All the seams are now sewn, double stiched and everything! I pretty much have only handwork left, plus cutting the boning for the side seams. I totally forgot I don't have any ¼” boning for the center back edges nor any lacing so looks like an order to Farthingales will be in order.
I pinned some of the pink binding along the seams (a la the stays in Fashion in Detail) to see how it looked. Pretty but I'm not sure if it's slimming or not. I'm also unsure if it adds or takes away from the pretty green silk. So now I'm trying to decide if I want the trim and if so, do I want it that width or half that (finished width of the edge binding). *ponders*
website updates
Mar. 5th, 2007 02:04 pmBeen working on my website the last few days so there are now lots of updates there! Mostly updated diaries but a few extras in the Study section in an attempt to have my site better reflect the info in this LJ...
Empty Pockets - finished! My first completed project of 2007.
Candy Stays - a new project with a new diary
Costumes - updated page with new/finished diaries. Also added a pending list of projects for your veiwing pleasure. :>
Study - added new pages on boning & "the Art of the Mantua Maker"
Williamsburg snapshots - newly orgnaized and a new page from our Dec 2006 visit
The new page from Williamsburg are the pics I promised you ages ago - I'd totally forgotten about that until looking up some lj tags. Opps! :>
Empty Pockets - finished! My first completed project of 2007.
Candy Stays - a new project with a new diary
Costumes - updated page with new/finished diaries. Also added a pending list of projects for your veiwing pleasure. :>
Study - added new pages on boning & "the Art of the Mantua Maker"
Williamsburg snapshots - newly orgnaized and a new page from our Dec 2006 visit
The new page from Williamsburg are the pics I promised you ages ago - I'd totally forgotten about that until looking up some lj tags. Opps! :>
an end of pockets
Mar. 4th, 2007 12:00 am






My second pocket is now officially done!! *throws confetti*
See I have pics to prove it, including close ups of the infamous piecing. *da dum* I used a flat felled seam for that, mostly for strength. Actually my first ever flat felled seam - I'm usually a French seam girl. I did the initial seaming on the machine but did the rest by hand. I figured it won't be as glaring that way and also the rest of the pocket was done by hand so it matches. :>
For my first pocket I sewed the linen tape waist band directly to the pocket but for this one I sewed a little channel so the waistband could be threaded through. This way the pockets are adjustable, as not all my pockets slits are in precisely the same place.
My stays are all boned now as well, except for the side seams which I have to sew first. I also did a quilt signature - and all with a day long headache, go me!
a Saturday's ramble
Mar. 3rd, 2007 11:04 amMy other plans for the weekend not working out, I can now work on my stays today *eyes boning with determination*. I might even get my pocket done, as I'm *this* close to being finished with it. Finishing is always a good thing.
I've also been working on the embroidery workshop I'm doing next Saturday. The quilting fellowship at church is having an open house, with food and different stations on the various steps of quilt making. I volunteered to teach a few basic embroidery stitches, as that is the last step of the quilt - the signature. I'm trying to keep it simple, so as not to overwhelm people. It should be fun, haven't "taught" handwork for years (taught ribbon embroidery at a Women's retreat long time ago). It's also got my mind working on the crewelwork class I want to teach at CC next year. I knew I'd need a vacation this summer but next year I want to start giving back a bit and crewelwork seemed the popular idea last year. I have a year to put that together (and get another project or two under my belt) but pre-planning is good right? :>
Looks like it will be a teaching spring, a friend has asked me to do a presentation on 18th century fashion to her DAR group in April. In fact, a reverse strip tease with commentary. :> I'm looking forward to it - there is nothing I love more than talking about (and showing off my) historic costuming. Now you know the real reason I'm working on new stays right now... *sly grin* Also on the list is a new shift, a proper bum roll, a new cap and some pannier (for show). I'd love to have my quilted petticoat done but *snort* - oh well!
I've also been working on the embroidery workshop I'm doing next Saturday. The quilting fellowship at church is having an open house, with food and different stations on the various steps of quilt making. I volunteered to teach a few basic embroidery stitches, as that is the last step of the quilt - the signature. I'm trying to keep it simple, so as not to overwhelm people. It should be fun, haven't "taught" handwork for years (taught ribbon embroidery at a Women's retreat long time ago). It's also got my mind working on the crewelwork class I want to teach at CC next year. I knew I'd need a vacation this summer but next year I want to start giving back a bit and crewelwork seemed the popular idea last year. I have a year to put that together (and get another project or two under my belt) but pre-planning is good right? :>
Looks like it will be a teaching spring, a friend has asked me to do a presentation on 18th century fashion to her DAR group in April. In fact, a reverse strip tease with commentary. :> I'm looking forward to it - there is nothing I love more than talking about (and showing off my) historic costuming. Now you know the real reason I'm working on new stays right now... *sly grin* Also on the list is a new shift, a proper bum roll, a new cap and some pannier (for show). I'd love to have my quilted petticoat done but *snort* - oh well!