Jenny La Fleur

Yes!!!

I just wrangled Mom's share of the black silk taffeta in the stash. So my black Robe à la Française is officially a go. I don't know why but I've gotten my heart set on making a Robe à la Française for my Gala dress next year. Maybe because my attempt with a synthetic taffeta last Jan went so badly. Or so many of my friends are making one this year or did last year (I am a sheep).

Black honestly isn't my first choice but I'm poor and the only silk taffeta I have of any quantity in the stash is black so it's black or no Française. So black it is. I have found a few portraits of black gowns but it seems to be wishy-washy whether they are mourning or not. All the references I'm finding for black fabrics being specifically for mourning are matte blacks, not shiny ones like my taffeta. I am finding lots of black accessories which surprised me a bit so black was clearly fashionable that way. I'm not doing living history anymore so I'm not sure I care but in general I like to know when I'm entering a "gray" area in my costuming.

I actually have some really great black trims in the stash for this and I'm getting really excited about the possibilities, whether I can document them or not. I've just resigned myself that it won't ever photograph well and I'll be a black void in candlelight. Still it will look awesome with my RED hair, CosCol isn't candlelight and if I add enough spangles I can live with being a sparkly void... :>

So not only is my sewing muse making her presence known again she is very much decked out in 18th century, specifically the 1770s. I'm just in the mood again and have been having way too much fun researching. Lately I've been looking at 1770s images/garments thinking - that really is cute and I need that. Not that I'm abandoning my beloved 1780s and it's awesome hedgehogs and long sleeves completely but it's time for something different I think.

If money were no object I would totally make every outfit in the "Sharp Family" by Zoffany for CosCol next year. Wouldn't that be fun? Instead I'm going to be inspired by it (and some of his other family paintings) and make at least a Robe à la Française, a Riding Habit, a mantlette, a pouf wig of doom and some of those ridiculous caps to go a top it for next year.

May I present… a cap! I still have a few threads to clip and some washable pencil marks to wash out but it’s done. *throws confetti*

I’ve discovered that cap making is fun and the variations are practically endless. I was very impressed with the Kannik’s Korner pattern and would highly recommend it for it’s good instructions, documentation and a cute product.

All of the above didn’t stop me from changing the pattern and re-writing the directions of course. *wink* I used cap A’s pieces for the non-spilt variation, but pleated the ruffle instead of gathering it. I took me a few tries to get the pleats right but I think the effort was worth it.

The pattern also instructs the cap to be assembled completely by hand. I ended up doing most everything by machine, which worked out fine. The machining did require going slow because of the super narrow seams and fine fabric, but I was able to do it without much hassle. Most of the seams I finished with zig-zagging, except the ruffle’s edge which I did (by hand) with a narrow hem. I did try a rolled hem there at first but it looked so bad I ripped it out and started over. Rolled hems are not my thing!

The fabric is a fine cotton voile, courtesy of G Streets bargain table. :> I starched it with a generous amount of spray sizing so it would be easier to work with. Cotton voile likes to shift around and the sizing made it much more cooperative and stable. The pattern called for narrow tape for the back ties but as I didn’t have any in the house I just used cotton embroidery floss. I braided three full strands of it together, knotted the ends and stuck it in the casing. So far it seems to work just fine.

Pattern:
my own drafted pattern or JP Ryan's Dormeuse pattern

Fabric/Materials:
white cotton voile, silk ribbon

Misc/Notes:
Once I decided I needed a hat with this ensemble, I was enchanted by the idea of wearing a cap underneath it. Caps were worn by all women at this time, but you don't always see them in modern reproductions and it's a shame.

While I could find info that caps were worn at this time, finding detailed information on the actual caps proved to be difficult. Caps grew smaller and smaller through this decade (particularly with "dress" outfits), sometimes not showing in the front at all. Not helpful when one is trying to find pictorial evidence of their shape and trimming!

I now have a good idea of general shapes and of what I want. I'm trying to decide if I want to attempt to draft a pattern myself or order JP Ryan's cap pattern and use it. It's a little earlier and would have to be tweaked a bit but that may be simpler than starting from scratch. Think, think, think...

PS - Yes I know my little doodle is goofy, told you I was not an artist! And no, it is not my attempt at a self-portrait by the way! Just a doodle... *giggle*