jennylafleur | Entries tagged with z:archive:19th:regency:bee

Okay I think I finally have it! Just one more toile… famous last words I know! :> I’m actually on toile #5. Number 4 was close to disaster so I didn’t bother to stop and do an entry for it. It got me to #5 though so…

I ended up taking too much fullness out of the side area – it was way too tight. I also added more of a curve to the side seam, using the S&S Regency pattern as my guide. The seam looks much better but using the S&S pattern totally messed up my armhole so that needed a lot of work. I’m going for the period small back, sleeve-in-the-back, almost-18th-century-thing but the S&S is designed as a modern round hole so yeah… needs some work.

Toile #5 corrected the fullness issue. I think just a hint more in the back and I’m done. I also pinned up a section of the shoulder strap area. That was a eureka moment when I tried it on. It instantly got rid of the pulling under the arm, put the gathers in the right place, lined up the shoulder strap with the stays line in back and pulled the hole arm/side into the correct position. Isn’t it great when so many issues are solved with one little adjustment? *hugs pins* I’ll just draft that little bit out of my next toile.

The armholes still need a lot of work but that’s to be expected as I didn’t mess too much with them from toile #4. I’ve marked them this time though and will cut them down for the next toile. I think I’m finally ready to start toileing the sleeves! So I’m at a good stopping point. I’ll make the changes to my master pattern, cut the next one and call it a night. Or maybe I’ll do a bit of embroidery instead and worry about toiles tomorrow. Only about 10” to go and I’m done with the front of the Bee! I can finally see light at the end of the tunnel on this project!

edit:
Gee, you sure can tell I'm tired in the pics. I look a little punchy in the first one. Just two I promise! *wink to B, C & L*

I’m beginning to think this dress may be the death of me! Ack – I keep thinking I’m getting close but I seem to be just one toile away from what I want. Just a bit frustrating. But I’m determined to get it right or die in the attempt.

My – aren’t I dramatic tonight! :>

I was trolling on the web the other night and stumbled upon this cool site for high quality Jane Austen film screen captures. SO KEWL! I’ve had way too much fun going through the S&S ones particularly, noticing seams and textile details I’d never noticed before.

Interestingly enough most of Eleanor and Marianne’s gowns are the same style, front fastening with a drawstring neck and “bib front” type skirt. Some of the skirts appear to tie while others button at the waist. Above is a great shot of one of Marianne’s frocks. Because it’s wet you can see exactly how it’s fastened. :> (All the captures above are from Longbourn. I've made them smaller to save space on my site, go to L for the large file versions. :>)

I thought about doing the same with my bee gown but in the end decided against it. I don’t need complicated skirt fastenings at this point… maybe next time. I did rediscover my love for the basic line of the film’s frocks though. *sigh* I looked through my books to find inspiration. Kyoto won out as usual and so my inspirations for my dress are the purple & yellow frocks from Kyoto and Eleanor’s white dress.

With that in mind I decided to draft the shoulder strap into the bodice. It’s hard to tell but I’m pretty sure that is how the two Kyoto gowns are done. It’s definitely the way E’s white gown was cut. It makes the neckline a bit more rounded but it should also make a drawstring along the entire neckline (my plan) easier.

Other changes to the toile were adding a hint more fullness to the front, adding quite a bit of fullness to the back and moving the back/side seam 1” towards the center back. I just tried on that toile (no pics – sorry!) and it looks pretty good. The side/back seam could come back a bit more. The sides now have way too much fullness to them. I think I need to concentrate the fullness in the center back and front more and have less on the sides. I think I need to shape the side/back seam to more of a concave shape as well. It sticks out in an annoying way right now. I seem too recall the Chancey pattern being concave with better results. I’ll put that out and have a look at it.

*trots off to work on let’s see… toile # 4* *sigh*

Second toile for the Bee. Still not terribly exciting but progress. I seem to be moving at a snails pace but I think I’m getting it. It probably doesn't look all that different but it is a whole new toile. I’m also working out how exactly I'm going to construct the thing... this toile was definitely progress on that issue!

The length looks good I think. I’ll have to put a toile skirt on it to know for sure. The neckline looks good, just need to shape the shoulder straps a bit more. Looks like I took too much fullness out so I’ll be putting a tad back in the front and sides. The back/side seam needs to be moved over an 1”.

The big question in my mind is should I replace the fullness at the center back or just make it fitted. It’s at an annoying in between at the moment. I need to look through my reference books/images again but as much as I love the fitted I’m leaning towards the full. The fitted (as I recall) is a later thing and I’m going early (1799-1804) for this dress.

It occurred to me this morning that my pattern (and vision) for this costume is a variation on a chemise a la reine bodice. At least that is the way I’m approaching the construction for good or ill. What is it that Jean Hunnisett says in her intro; look to the construction immediately before and close your mind to later innovations in cut and construction. Very paraphrased but you get the idea…

First fitting for the Bee. Not terribly exciting but pics none the less. :>

Overall it needs to be shortened and some of the fullness (particularly at the side) needs to be taken out. I’ll also be shaping the shoulder strap a bit more. I want a drawstring in the neck and waist so some of those sharp angles need to be softened or that drawstring will never work.

Oh yes - B finished my bee diadem on Friday. Its exactly what I wanted - so pretty! It's now sitting it a shoe box demanding a dress to match. :>

I'm not going to post pictures of it quite yet though. I do need some surprises for Costume College you know. *rub hands together in an evil way* Besides it doesn't look right when not on my head and I don't plan on dressing my hair appropriately anytime soon. Here is a pic of B working on it to tease you a bit. *smile*

Despite a week of debilitating migraines and general sinus ickiness I’m making progress on the Bee Dress. Today I’ve been feeling particularly fuzzy and blah, mostly worn out from all the headachiness, but in true WWKD I prevailed long enough to get the Bee on a roll. :>

I think I’ve worked out all the issues with my 1804 stays. I ended up re-doing the back panels. With the eyelet issue it seemed the best thing to do. By-the-by I think another factor in the eyelet issue was that they were spaced too far apart. Anyway, I still need to redo the eyelets on the straps and re-bind the whole thing but since it was in wearable condition I took all the measurements for the Bee dress and started draping that pattern. I’ve had enough of the stays for now. :P

I decided to use the same patterns from Hunnisett that I used on the Greensleeves dress. With my tight deadline I thought using something I’m at least familiar with (as opposed to a bib-front or something like that) would be good. Besides I wasn’t completely happy with the GS (Greensleeves) so this is my chance to try again.

While I’m using the same patterns, I decided to start from scratch with them. I’m so much more experienced at pattern making and period now. It’s amazing how differently I view the Regency so than I did 3 years ago.

So I pulled out my original sized-up version from the Hunnisett book and cut a new toile. I’m using some old silk essence to better simulate the silk I’ll be using. As I recall from the GS, the finial product came out very different than the muslin toile. I don’t want any unpleasant surprises. Also I want to play with the fullness of the gathers, getting the right look with a minimal amount of fabric. I can’t do that if the gathers behave totally different because of fabric.

So I got as far as cutting it out and basting it all together. I did alter the pattern a bit before I cut, taking out a full 2” from the underarm area. I want the fullness concentrated in the front and back this time. Looking at the toile on Narcissa I think I’m going to take a bit more out. I definitely need to shorten it and the straps need some serious adjustments. I need to try it on before I can do anymore though and I don’t feel like it at the moment. I think I shall make it an early night instead…

Ahhh! This wretched set of stays! The more work I do on it the more I find I need to do. If it weren’t for all the work represented by that cording I would be making a new set at this point. Surely that is easier than tweaking an old one! Cording aside of course…

I decided I really did need to cut it down under the arms. Cutting it down ¼” and using shorter boning wasn’t enough. The original pattern shows the underarm area being straight across but the two times I’ve worn it as is, I was extremely uncomfortable. I can deal with a lot of things but corsets and boning digging into my underarm is not one of them.

While I’m at it I’m also going to cut down the front a tad. I had added to the top front for modesty sake but it really ruins the line of the bust. It also forces me to a higher neckline on my frocks which doesn’t look quite right to my eyes. I’m way past the high modesty lines of S&S patterns at this point in my life. It’s all about neckerchiefs I’ve found. :> I wish I had time to mess with the bust gussets (I think they need to be a little wider at the top) but I’m sane enough to not even go there. New gussets will have to wait for a totally new set of stays…

I’m also shortening the straps more (I need more of gap there to get them nice and tight) and moving the lacing hole on the front of the stays over an inch or so (this should help the issue of the straps constantly wanting to fall off).

All this means all the binding on the top has come off so I will end up rebinding the stays. I don’t think I have any of that binding left so it will have to be new stuff. Wish I could use red or something for contrast but that won’t work with the sheer light colored wardrobe of the Regency.

My biggest issue is the lacing holes of the back panels. When B laced me in for the first time she ripped out 4 of my handbound eyelets (the only eyelets in my entire wardrobe to have ripped). I repaired them as best I could but I noticed after my fitting last night that one of the repaired ones has come out again. I think it’s an issue with the fabric and a lack of technique at the time. I need to see if I have some of that twill left to re-do the back panels… I just don’t see how I can work with re-ripped eyelets. Plus the problem with only get worse the more I wear it…

*sigh*

First - thanks to all for your kind comments on my attire this weekend. I'm so humbled by your praise - you guys are great! More pics of the event can now be found on the RCHS website on this page.

Thanks also to those of you who helped slap me upside the head on the regency stays issue. You all are absolutely correct and I've seen the error of my ways. *wicked grin* I'm going to just fix the fitting issues and wear the ugly twill with pride. :> Besides B has begun work on my bee diadem today so I'm anxious to get the dress properly started. *wink*

That is about all to report on the sewing front. I've been busy the last few days on baby quilt signatures. I've gotten quite behind the past few months. I took the step of simplifying the design further. I just don't have the time to do the more elaborate ones these days. So the signatures are smaller and simpler but still nice I think. They are hand crafted and made with love and good wishes anyway. :>

After some thought I've decided to put my Butterfly dress on hold until later in the summer. I'm just not in the mood to work on it and switching from 18th/regency and 1911 construction has proved too much for my little mind to deal with. The shapes and fitting techniques are just too different. So I'm going to focus on my bee dress and other 18th century projects for a while. If I get the butterfly done in time for Costume College than great and if not, well that's really okay with me too. I'm just not going to worry about it for a while anyway...

I really should have more restraint!!!

I got the bug to work on my bee dress today so *almost* like a good little girl I pulled out my stays first to see what repairs needed to be done before I started on dress toiles.

The stays fit okay (so weird feeling after the 1770s stays I’ve been wearing so much lately!), just a few tweaks, some of which I could honestly wear the stays without. I tried I really did… I was only going to replace the boning on the sides that was too long and shorten the shoulder straps so they actually fit. Suddenly I found myself unpicking the back seams so I can make the back edges even (the gap is much smaller at the top than the bottom) and then scheming to rip off all the ugly binding and replace it and finially pulling out the ivory bridal satin from the stash and wondering if I could recover the stays without too much handwork.

I need professional help I really do!! Tell me it doesn’t matter that my stays are an ugly unbleached twill and the binding is too wide to be pretty. Shake some sense into me and pound into my head the work involved in hand-stitching each of those tiny rows of hemp cording, so it looks pretty on the outside. Whatever you do don’t let me seriously think about redoing the back panels just to replace the eyelets B ripped out while lacing me in the first time I wore it, dispite already have repaired them (oh the drama of eyelets!!). Threaten me with no sewing for a month for trying to justify my reasoning with "well it's easier than re-making a whole new pair, with all that cording".

Really, it’s not like I don’t already have a million projects I don’t really have time for as it is. It's a sickness I tell you!! *pounds head on desk* So. Much. Professional. Help.

The bad news is I'm sick. The good news is it's just an annoying sore throat and cough so I don't feel like doing anything but sewing. Also it isn't anything to prevent me from attending Belmont tomorrow. In fact if it's anything like B's version (cold courtesy of loving sis) it's just a 24 hour malady.

I've been working on my jacket today but before I get into that, here is a pic of my bee dress so far. Actually I've did a bit more since taking that pic. So I'm about 19" along, out of about 45". I really need to toile my dress one of these days so I know the exact length. Details, details!! :>

Ah yes, the ruffly jacket or return to the dratted sleeves. I cut out the pattern from the Northern Society of Costume & Textiles pattern jacket and basted them up a few days ago. They took a bit more fiddling than I expected. They had to be enlarged and lengthened both above and below the elbow (no surprise there) and the elbow to wrist required some shaping/fitting.

I finally got it looking pretty good (pics are of the finial toile #1 fitting this morning), except for the fact that the upper back wasn’t large enough to fit my gown. You can see just how much I added to the top of the sleeve in the pics, the black horizontal marker line was the original top of the front piece. Weird, huh?

So I marked then took the sleeve apart & recut them - adding generously to the upper back (which is actually at the seam). I’ve tried the second sleeve on three times now. You know repining here, adjusting there. I have one small adjustment to make before I try it on for, hopefully, the last time. I took a break for lunch, which ended up being a late lunch and nap so I’m writing this before entering the fray again.

Obviously I won’t be wearing this jacket to Belmont tomorrow, but I may have a chance to wear it Thursday (and of course UTR and CC) so I’m hoping to get the toile finished today.

I took my Costume College paperwork to the post office first thing this morning. So my CC fate is now out of my hands. Somehow that makes me happy - no more thinking, just curiosity to see what the results are. :>

I signed up for the metal thread embroidery, tambour work, fingerless mitts and glove making. I also signed up for the Sally Queen and fabric tour, although I’m not entirely sure I really want to do the tour. Not that I don’t want to go just I’m not sure I’ll be able to bring enough spending money to make it worth the effort. I would love to find some decent trims and laces though; my stash is getting depressingly low.

That will also make for 5 full days of costuming intake – that might be a little much for my first time. I would imagine costume info overload isn’t a terribly pretty sight. *hee hee*

In other news I finally got around to un-pinning and washing the marks off my Quilted petticoat. If you will recall I found as I was working that the diamond shapes were way off on one end so I have to re do them. The washable pencil marks wouldn’t come off with a wet rag so I ended up throwing the whole thing in the washer for a rinse cycle. I’ve hung it up to dry so I can work on that this weekend.

worked on my bee embroidery a bit tonight. It’s coming along okay. I guess. I mean everyone looks at it and gushes but my perfectionism is rearing it’s ugly head once again. I can’t get my stitches to come out evenly or the design for that matter. Part of that is the nature of the silk I’m using (so slippery) but the lack of control and consistency is bugging me. The chain stitched scrolls are turning out to be very time consuming as well – I should have used a different stitch. I may change it when I get to the hem.

I keep telling myself that the over-all effect is what matters and no one will ever look that closely or judge as harshly as I do but I must admit it’s combining to make the project a bit of a drag.

Why do I do these things to myself?!

Despite my lack of updates I have been working on my projects… well some of them. :>

I am really whaling on the Bee dress embroidery. Its going faster than I originally feared although still slow enough to make me want to rethink doing that WHOLE hem. We’ll see… I’m going to have to stop pretty soon and figure out the pattern for the dress before proceeding any further. I was going to use the same Hunissett pattern I used on my Greensleeves gown but know I’m thinking about making a bib-front instead. I don’t know…

I’m also making progress on my hat. The brim is now all tacked down. I’m going to add some self binding along the inside to finish all the edges and then I will work on the crown. Pictures to come…

First off I want to thank you so much for all your suggestions and encouragement on the whole embroidery sizing issue – you guys are the best! After walking away from it for a few days I decided to just bite the bullet and start over with the larger size. Painful as it was it was actually the simplest solution and the one I was the happiest with in the end.

While I was at it I redid my tracing of the design, cleaning it up further and creating a tidy master pattern (I made sure to file it properly so as not to lose it this time!). I had it finished in time to take to my Mary Kay conference last weekend so I got to work on it there. I’ve been able to work on it a bit more this week and I’m found a rhythm for it. I’m really enjoying working on it (embroidery is really like crack sometimes!) but I need to stop soon and switch to some of my other projects. My hat, butterfly dress and quilted petticoat all need attention. I also just bought some cute everyday patterns/fabric I need to make up for the summer. Those are projects I have to work on at home – the bee embroidery is not.

I have to admit that I’m a little disappointed the color of the thread turned out so light on the gown. It’s a bit more subtle than I had envisioned. Oh well. With the embroidery, it’s really the overall effect that will make it work anyway.

I got my Costume College guide in the mail this week, which leads me to a question for all you CC veterans… In the general info section there is a little note that “we would prefer that you don’t come to class, especially the workshops, in costume.” So… are costumes worn anyway or should I plan on wearing everyday things during the day (to which I say moo!)?

Also, I didn’t realize there were additional fees for classes and tours – how much should I be budgeting for that? Thanks guys!

I’m still debating about what to do with the embroidery. I’ve decided I do want give the embroidery thing another try. I know in the end I won’t be satisfied with another plain frock.

What to do about the sizing issue is another question though. Honestly I like the larger version better but I’m not sure I have the will power to start from scratch once again. After going through the heartache of ripping out the work I’m not sure I will sit down and start again in a timely manner (which I must do if I have a hope of finishing it in time). Then again will I get it all done in the smaller version and hate it? I really can’t figure myself out on this one.

You know, this gown is turning out to be quite a drag. The only thing keeping me going is the though of wearing my lovely diadem and staring at the bee fabric for a little while. Why do I do these things to myself?

*grinds teeth*

So I finally get around to tracing the pattern and beginning work on the embroidered bee dress. I finish one motif, about the same amount I had done on the first version, when I realize why this second attempt looks more delicate than the first. It’s the wrong size.

Yep. I must have accidentally used an older saved version of the design when I traced it on, which is about 20% smaller. I like the larger version much better of course *rolls eyes* so I must start over. Again.

I really do think this costume is cursed or something. I have never had so many false starts and significant setbacks on a costume I haven’t even toiled yet! I must admit I’m thinking quite seriously about forgetting the whole embroidery idea. I’m not sure I can take much more.

In other news, I finished work on the striped petticoat (which is super cute), began on a new covered hat and found enough fabric in the stash for a new summer frock. None of these projects seem to be cursed thank goodness. I even bled all over my petticoat waistband, which I’ve been told is good luck. :>

For my own reference:
Greensleeves skirt measurements:

front panel: 48"
side panel: 52" (half on each side)
back panels: 65"

approx = 4.5 yards

Thank you all so much for your comments on my latest bit of insanity. I'm so glad you are enjoying the madness!! *wink*

I love Dharma! I ordered my silk twill late Thursday night and it arrived this morning. So cool!

In spite the progress I've made on the quilted petticoat this week I'm totally ready to ditch it for a while and focus on this gown's embroidery. I'm still suffering from sewing ADD at the moment - can you tell? ... So pathetic!

Spending my weekend watching the 1970s miniseries of War & Peace probably hasn’t helped my current Empire dress obsession either. I didn't know much about the story before I watched this production. It was well done but the story didn't wow me, I have to say. There were some pretty frocks though. I saw at least three over gowns I swear were made with the Arnold pattern! One was particularly pretty with braid or some such trim tracing the bodice seams... umm...

The famed *secret project* is revealed! *throws confetti*

My second ambitious project of the year is an embroidered Regency gown & robe. I've been planning and working on this for 6 months now, not that you would know from the progress I've made. I guess some projects just have to have a few stops and starts. :>

I'll be wearing this gown to Costume College, the James Madison Ball & the gown by itself to the RCHS Fall Tea.

( all the yummy details! )

The silk has been ordered!!! Too much sugar tonight, yeah exactly. Anyway… :>

The order for Dharma silk for the pirate and SP (*secret* project) should be on it’s way tomorrow. Finally, the ball is rolling on a few of my projects! I think I have the design for the SP locked in and a good idea of what I want to do with the quilted petticoat. I’m still on the quest for the perfect ball/twelfth night project but I have some good leads, thanks to your suggestions. Ta again!

The pirate is starting to shape up as well. I have some notes and pics to post on that progress but I’ll wait and do that in the morning.

I seem to be at a stand still on all my projects. I hate that. Oh, except of course the pirate which I just don't want to work on. Nothing against the project, everything that needs doing on it is super boring. I need to get over it I know.

I made a trek to G Streets today so I have the silk thread for my quilted petticoat (huzzah for a decent match on my custom dyed silk!) and the twill tape for the cream petticoat. So I'm all ready to start on the petticoat as soon as I can get the design finalized and the panels sewn up. I really should do that as I don't have a needlework project now. I could be making progress on something while I watch movies at night if I had anything to work on! :>

I also stopped by the needlework shop downtown and discovered they carry silk embroidery thread, several kinds actually. So I'm set on suppliers for that project. I need to decide on the actual shade of color and then I'll be ready to start on that... once I have the fabric... and after I've finalized the embroidery design of course. *sigh* I either have nothing to work on or 4 projects going. Go figure.

Yes I am being cryptic about the former costume and no you haven't missed something. This embroidered silk thread something is a "secret project" for wear next spring. It's secret for now anyway. I'm just not ready to announce it quite yet. *rubs hands together* Ya'll like it though. :> Picture much embroidery so I need to start it fairly soon.

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Jenny La Fleur

adventures in costuming

getting there!

bee toile #3

bee toile #2

first Bee toile

bee diadem

bee on a roll

stays issues

news from my end of the world

a lack of restraint

jacket sleeve toiles & bee update

CC classs & handwork progress

slight update

another begining for the bee

pictorial evidence

moo I say!!

notes on Empire skirt panels

happy mail day

Abeille d'Or - The Golden Bee

silk is such fun!

supplies, hints of my lastest insanity and a bit of whining - the usual

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July 2014

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