jennylafleur: (naughty)



Time to vote!

Which eye lashes should I wear with the Queen of the Night to the Gala on Saturday?

thick black
silver glitter
black feather
jennylafleur: (party)
Friday
Tea at Brightons, CC27 Social Night

Because of the amount of pics I took at CC27 I am breaking the albums up by days instead of putting them all in one. So on to Friday!

Friday was a good day. I enjoyed the quiet farm when I woke up, drove to Baltimore, got lost but made it to the hotel in one piece and in the rain no less, checked in, had bad hair that took three tries to look decent, threw on 18th century clothes, drove downtown, got lost again, drank tea, took lots of pics, dressed in sparkles & stars, was complemented on said sparkles by friends and strangers alike, drank half Aubry's cosmo, took more pics, laughed, hugged, drank champagne, danced to "I Want Candy", used 3 cotton pads and lots of eye-make remover to get all my eye make-up off and finally fell asleep in the wee hours of the morning thanks to all the champagne. It was fun!

My pics can be found here: CC27: Friday

videos below )

still here

Apr. 29th, 2009 03:54 pm
jennylafleur: (dark days)
I am gluing rhinestones. Dude this is tedious!!
jennylafleur: (Default)
Tweaks to front of QotN zone front finished. *check!*
Earring backs removed from moon earrings. *check!*
Former moon earrings sewn down to QotN front. *shiney check!*
jennylafleur: (dark days)
QotN waistband - done!

I did several layers of stacked pleats on the sides so I ended up doing more by hand than useal. Stacked pleats in velveteen = way thick that machine doesn't like. Turns out I'm in the mood for lazy handwork tonight so it's okay...
jennylafleur: (1799)
Jenny-Rose update:

Stressed.
Overwhelmed.
Tired.
Wrists hurt.
SO behind in CC sewing it isn't funny.

Yeah, that about covers it.

After working on it ALL day yesterday and all morning this am my slideshow, notes and handout for the 18th century panel I'm doing with Loren and Kendra is done. *whew* That took way more time than I thought it would.

So I started sewing at 4:30pm today. I hemmed the Queen of the Night skirt, working on the waist band. I'm *this* close to being done with black fuzz. Yay!!

On the agenda tonight:
QotN waist band
let out side seams in QotN bodice
sew together panels for blue print skirt and ruffle
unpick blue print sleeves (they need to be taken in a bit)

If the night goes amazingly well:
take in and re attach blue print sleeves
pleat blue print skirt

Be prepared for updates this evening. I'm in the mood to celebrate these little victories by spamming my friend's list. :P
jennylafleur: (polonaise)

Things are progressing, despite the lack of updates here. My life refuses to go as planned and days I thought would be sewing days are not and days I thought would not be sewing days turned out to be just that. Things just keep coming up, which is both a good and bad thing. My schedule seems determined to stay in flux, so I’m just trying to be diligent with the moments I do have and hope for the best.

Friday [livejournal.com profile] sadievale came over and in between helping her with stays and toiles I got my yellow petticoat hemmed and waist banded. It was being a complete butt so it took all night. Wretched petticoats.

Saturday was craziness for most of the day. The afternoon brought sleeve trauma as I tried to make the old Pimpernel sleeve fit in the revamp toile. I had a few moments where I considered burning all my fabric and leaving costuming forever but some time loading photos on Facebook gave me time to recover my senses and ponder. So I laid out every scrap of Pimpernel fabric on the big table in the studio and tried to figure out how to get all the pieces (including new sleeves) to fit. With God’s grace I figured out a way to do it. There is one of the old Cynthia skirt seams running through the under bodice of the zone front and the sleeves will be 3/4 but it all fit - yay!

The evening brought a gaggle of girlfriends I’d invited over for a crafty night, including [livejournal.com profile] past_blue, [livejournal.com profile] dancinseamstres, & [livejournal.com profile] sadievale. Most everyone brought handwork projects so they all sat around the kitchen/studio while I made brownies for a friend and cut out my Pimpernel bodice. It was a fabulous time and a fun mix of people. We seriously need to do that more often ladies! By the end of the party I had a complete bodice cut, the back flat lined and the rest of the pieces pinned together, ready to go.

Sunday was again full, this time with helping at church. Afterwards I came home and crashed. My busy week had finally caught up with me and I spent all of Sunday night sitting at my computer watching TV and nibbling of leftover treats. I felt a tiny bit guilty for the lack of sewing projects but my body needed the rest so bad. Really what else are Sundays for anyway!

Monday dawned rainy and gloomy. I sat down to spend the whole day hard at sewing with varying degrees of success. I sewed the pimpernel bodice together, although the zone front turned out to be wrong (the points are supposed to meet at the center not over lap so I have to redo those seams. Grrrrr) and my brilliant idea for how to sew the skirt on only lead to frustration.

I did work on my notes for the 18th century panel I’ll be on at CC27 as well. It will need a few more hours of work but I’m not in panic mode like I was before I started. Luckily we are sticking to basics so I’m not feeling too insecure about it. :P

Today the sun is shining (and I’m tired of dealing with the Pimpernel) so I think I’ll switch gears and attack the QofN petticoat. Hopefully it won't be as much as a butt as the yellow petticoat but considering they are twins I’m not holding my breath.
jennylafleur: (dark days)

What my room looked like last night Or: A Glimpse of Sewing Life... :>


Yesterday's sewing time was devoted to cutting, seaming and pleating the QotN over petticoat. Yay for black velveteen!


When I was done I had to put the outfit on Narcissa to see what it looked like. Ooooh, ahhh!


Of course I couldn't just leave it there - I had to try out some of the gems, jewelry and such I’ve been collecting all year and see if the bling worked. FREAKING AWESOME is all I have to say about that! The white dots on the bodice are pins so I could get an idea of how the rhinestones will look. I counted the pins as I put them on and I have 150 there so 300 for the whole bodice. Dude I have like 900 so I will be able to go to town and "encrust" the front nicely, use some on the sleeves and have left overs for the skirt. Whoo hoo!!


I think my favorite part are the vintage moon earrings Bridget bought me for Christmas. They are the perfect size and scale for the center front. That just worked out, I didn't plan it, although looking back I should have! And hello - they go with the whole Queen of the Night thing so nicely. The stones on the skirt are glass "beads" from Michaels. I need some more but have bought out my local store... I’ll make the trek up north to see what the Garrison store has next week.

Ahh, I am so stoked with this frock I don't even know what to do with myself!!


This am I took all the pins out and tried on the petticoats so Mom could mark the hems. The bulkiness on the sides is causes some fitting issues with the bodice so I'll have to let out the side seams a bit. Mreh. This ladies and gentlemen is why we flat line!

I also tried on the Pimpernel revamp toile. The center front bottom needs to be shortened a bit and the neckline a little more rounded but other than that... Oh I still have to double check the sleeves.

[livejournal.com profile] sadievale is coming over tonight to sew with me so it will be a night of hems, waistbands and, if I'm a good girl and work diligently, cutting out the Pimpernel. *happy butt wiggle*
jennylafleur: (georgian feathers)

First off I have to say I love you guys! *hugs* So I-Want-Candy froofy it is for the Pimpernel! But more on that later...

Yesterday I focused on the under petticoat for the Queen of the Night. I figured A) that I should make my mistakes on the under petticoat and B) since no one would see it I should have fun with the color. So I went with a blinding yellow that is a close match to my stay binding. Circus anyone? :>


My first step was to pad out my dress form a bit and pin on a piece of black bias tape that was my finished waist measurement. I perfected the size and such of the side pleats first, adding a slit in the side so I can get into my pockets.


Once I got that down I pleated the front half of the finial skirt, pinning the seaming of the side panels. (To get them to not pucker I had to shimmy one side of the side pleated section up a bit, it wasn’t even at the waist!).


To get the front to fall nicely I then had to shimmy the front up and mark where the bias tape "waist" was. I then took it off the dress form; making sure to leave a 1/4th section of the waist with pleats pinned and trimmed the waist according to my markings. I repeated the trimming of my panels of fabric, using my trimmed off scraps as a guide.


I then seamed all the pieces together, cut slits in the sides and hemmed those up. Then I started pleating the waist, using the pinned section as my guide. Once the waist was pleated to the correct size I popped it back on the dress form just to make sure everything still worked. It did! I basted the waist and set it aside until I can go by more fabric for the waistband.

I decided not to continue on with the black over petticoat, since it was evening and I wasn’t in the mood to work on black in the dark, so I turned my attention to the pimpernel bodice. I got as far as laying out my master patterns and realizing that I had enough fabric to re-cut the entire bodice (sans sleeves, I’ll have to make due with the old). Then I started looking at options, got overwhelmed and posted my cry for help.


This am, boosted by the overwhelming response that I should go I-Want-Candy froofy I started work on the updated Pimpernel patterns. I was changing enough that I decided to do a quick toile. I have NO room for error with my fabric; this is it for my pile of leftover scraps, so it has to be right the first time. I also need to double check the armhole since I have to use the old sleeves. Unless I started piecing fabric that is...

Now I'm off to run some errands including a trip to Jo-Anns for notions and necessities. It will only be the 3rd trip this week. Bah!

I be bored

Apr. 15th, 2009 02:16 pm
jennylafleur: (bother)
Pannier petticoats are boring. Boring, boring, boring. They also involve math, which is not friendly.

So I sit here, refreshing my friend's page again and again waiting for something to happen. Come on people - I need foufy pretty distraction!
jennylafleur: (l'duc)
My QotN bodice is now the proud owner of 11 hand sewn hooks and eyes - yay! Hems on the sleeves, some Swarovski rhinestones and it will be finished. *happy butt wiggle*

I've switched to working on the underpetticoat for the QotN. I figured now that I have an idea of the basic layout and how my fabric will behave I should make all my mistakes on the petticoat that won't show. Well, the petticoat that will only show at the underwear breakfast anyway. :> (I assume this is still happening?) Pics to come...
jennylafleur: (1788)

Taxes are done - yay! So the race for the CC27 finish begins. Here is the bodice for Queen of the Night. I was just checking the fit and it looks good to me! The sleeve is from my striped jacket, I simply enlarged it a tiny bit since it didn't have ANY ease in it last time. Pretty but not all that comfy for long periods of time. This version has a funky puffiness at the back but if I take that out I won't be able to move, so puffiness it is. :P


Last night I started work on the pannier skirt. I mocked up the skirt last summer but was never really happy with the results. Thanks to [livejournal.com profile] koshka_the_cat I figured out the correct pleating method but I found my pleated section puffed out in a very annoying way.

So this time I decided to drape the skirt in my velveteen, so I'd know exactly how the fabric would behave. When I pleated it the period way, I got the same puffiness in the side skirt. Looking through my files of extant garments I noticed they have the same puffiness in the same place but in taffeta and satin it's not as obvious. Moo.


So I tried something new, using the same sort of pleats but bringing them all the way to the waist. No puffiness. It also used less fabric, important since I'm using limited yardage from the stash. After some pondering I decided that since this costume is all fantasy anyway I would throw historical accuracy out the window and go with option #2. It's prettier that way, do I really need another reason? I think not. :>

I measured out how much yardage I would need (my waist to floor measurements x number of panels required) and I had exactly the right amount of fabric, like down to a ¼". *happy butt wiggle* It doesn't get any better than that!

I didn't feel like standing up and draping anymore so I turned my attention to the bodice. I pinned in the second sleeve, finished off all the seams on the inside with whip stitching and sewed on all the hooks.

To be honest I'm a little scared at how well this project is going - it's too good to be true!
jennylafleur: (dark days)

No work on the Pimpernel yesterday. Instead I did this:


I couldn't help myself! Once all the fabrics were cut and in a neat pile they just cried out to be sewn together! So the bodice is pretty much done, just a bit of handwork to finish up on the inside and the sleeves. The velvet over bodice came out a little smaller than I intended, not sure what happened there, but I’m going to put the sleeves in before I try it on to see if I like it or not. I have plenty of fabric to re-cut that piece. It would be a pain to redo it but if it's not flattering what is the point of wearing it, right?

I love the silver metallic silk tissue - it's so rich! I had bought some cheap silver lame to line it with but in the end I lined it with black cotton. The black made it look richer. You know, I think I'm going to have to come up with another project so I can work with the metallic silk tissue again, it really is cool stuff. :>
jennylafleur: (georgian costume)

The stays are now wearable, yay!


I like the fit, the third row of horizontal boning does make some difference. It makes my bust more flat and yet more round. Very late 1770s. Someday I will get the binding on (and take better pics for y'all) but for now I'm skipping straight to the fun stuff - the frocks!


Yesterday I laced myself up and tried on the Queen of the Night toile I worked on last fall. I remembered it looking pretty good but stopped work on it until I had new stays (just in case they fit differently). The toile needed some slight tweaks but nothing major. I mostly re-drew the neckline, the "zone" shape and the center front point (having changed my mind about those shapes). A little trimming around the armsycle and that was about it.

Suddenly I was done and like ready to cut out something out. Wow! I'm so glad I put in some work on this a couple of months ago, even without new stays. It's going to make my life so much easier now. I’m now feeling quite lighthearted and optimistic about finishing my CC27 line-up, especially since I can use this pattern as the base for my Pimpernel revamp and the Fort Fred outfit. So three patterns in one. Whoo hoo!

So I spent the rest of my sewing time tracing off the master patterns for the queen of the night. Today I'm going to cut out the fashion fabric this morning and then work on tweaking the pattern for the Pimpernel. Can I get two frocks cut out today? Stay tuned for our next episode... err post. :>


Ahh yes and here are some pics of the construction of the stays which I haven't posted before...
jennylafleur: (l'duc)
*swoon*

I am in love!!

http://mantuadiary.blogspot.com/2008/12/cut-away-gown-history.html

Thanks [livejournal.com profile] sakka for the link to her blog.

I've been really drawn to this shape of "zone" front lately but this is truly a stunning reproduction of it. She has the proportions just right. So now I'm wondering if I could alter my Pimpernel to this shape or if it would even be worth the effort since I don't have a contrasting stomacher/petticoat. I'm also liking the buttons. Miss-I-loath-doing-buttonholes. Weird.

*ponders possibilities*
jennylafleur: (l'duc)

Our slumber party was fun, as was the following morning's coffee shop gab session and shopping. The afternoon/evening's headache was not. Wretched weather can't make up it's mind. *shakes fist at sky*

The Duchess movie was certainly the costume porn I'd heard it proported to be. My favorite part of the 18th century too - yummy! The hair *gasp* and the jewelry *sigh*. The costumes I'd give a 10, the movie a 3. The story itself was interesting (bit of a downer though) and the acting good but we spent more of the film than I like with the fast forward button in hand. Personally I prefer certain things to be left to the imagination. *ahem* So I guess not seeing it in the theater wasn’t such a bad deal. No fast forward button there...

Still I have spent a good chunk of the day browsing and being inspired on the Duchess site (where was that last year when we were making riding habits and redingotes!) and Costumer’s Guide. I was so inspired I went to the fabric store and bought lining for new stays. Heck, I may even get some *now don't faint* SEWING done this vacation!

The rest of my day today was spent working on headdresses. Bridget and I plotted out the tiara for Queen of the Night and started work on [livejournal.com profile] girliegirl32786's wedding diadem. [livejournal.com profile] girliegirl32786's diadem is going well and I'm super excited to see our vision for the QotN become reality. Yeah, the late 18th century is definitely singing her siren song!

All I can say is it's about time - I was begining to think I'd lost my costume fu or something.
jennylafleur: (darkdays)
Remind me to not make a black toile again. I wanted black to minic my QotN fashion fabric, so I could better visualize the finial product, but I'm finding I don't enjoy working on it. The black drains me somehow and I can only work on it for short bursts of time.

Not a good sign for my QotN. I'm hoping the excitment of velvet will help me get over that. Rich, nappy goodness - yay!

This weekend I toiled and finially finished tracing the master pattern for the QotN bodice. It took me a couple of toiles to get the back fitted nicely (drafting out that jacket peplum) but it was worth the extra effort. This is going to serve as a master pattern for my upcoming Pimpernel re-vamp and a new English gown too so it needed to be right.

I also got all the pending baby quilt signatures ready for embroidery. All five of them. *sigh* We are working on a signature alternative. The quilting group is too big now and this lone embroiderer can't keep up. This lone embroiderer is also tired of being behind and feeling guilty because of it so she is more than ready to hang up her shingle. It was fun but moving on can be a good thing too.

Also, another sewing commission. Another English gown for an RCHS member. Nice and easy, yay!
jennylafleur: (darkdays)

I worked on QofN on Wednesday... just now posting. So sad. It's been that kind of week. Anyway, I whipped up a bodice toile based on my b&w stripe jacket (since it fits so beautifully). I tried that on as well as the pannier and petticoat. It's looking pretty good. Haven't figured out exactly what I want to do with the bodice back... but the rest is just tweaks. I'm not even going to bother with a sleeve toile since I was super happy with the jacket.

This outfit has been so easy I'm starting to get nervous! I must be doing something wrong! My plan of a simply constructed frock that I bling out the wahzoo can't possibly be working after all! That is too clever. :>
jennylafleur: (music)




The right side is the first try (pleats lower), the left side is second attempt (pleats higher, then close ups of the first try - I think I actually like the first attempt better, it's less poufy.


The second attempt. I didn't end up messing with pleats in the top seam. I thought I'd work on one issue at a time.


Then I brought out the stretch velvet I'd earmarked for the train. I tried it the way I'd originally planned to us it (no pics but basically around the waist with the pleating in the center back and hanging straight back like this). Not very cute in the stretch velvet.

Then I draped the train over the sides of the pannier, changing the pleating a little so it looked nice (like this& this). I like it! I think it shows off the fabric much better. Also it saves me the hassle/expense of a lining for the train, plus it covers up much of the sides and the issues I'm having there.


So I'm going to skip another toile, and make the skirt like the first attempt. I don't feel like messing about the other ideas I have (like changing the way I cut the dip in the front or adding pleats to the sides of the pannier top seam). Poufing slightly or not, I am content. I'll save my anal perfectionism for the court dress with English pannier. :>
jennylafleur: (darkdays)


Zee pannier, in all their cramped glory!


The petticoat is coming along. Thanks to [livejournal.com profile] koshka_the_cat's tutorial, some stealth videos I took of her at CoCo and look through my extant garment files I think I'm getting there. At least it's looking like Katherine's so I can't be too far off. Katherine you are my hero and seriously I owe you one! *hugs*

It's poufing on the very outside pleat in a way that is annoying me. I'm going to try doing the other side of the petticoat a little differently, hiking the end up further on the pannier (I think it's down a little low) and adding pleats to the top seam and see if that helps. Thing is I'm wondering if it's just one of those 18th century things though. Like the poufing at the back of a 18th century sleeve that is actually correct.

Ideally I don't want pleats in the seam, I like the look of the flat top pannier. However in reviewing all my books and images I noticed that all the flat skirt top that I like so much are on the square-ish English pannier, not the sloping French like the one I just made. Huh. So maybe not.

Anyway I think my mock-up has the right amount of fabric for the skirt (3.5 panels of 45") so I estimated the amount I need (5.5 yd), measured the black velveteen in the stash and there is enough for my skirt - yay! I might even be able to squeeze out the bodice, we'll see. If not there is another piece in the stash, it’s just a different dye lot. I don’t think I care. Yay for over-buying fabric for pirate costumes! :>

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