jennylafleur: (franciase)

Starting with the most important thing – the photos! I didn’t take many, partly due to not being in the mood at first and then lack of maneuverability in my frock. Damn train! Also as we are wont to do in costuming there was much standing in circles - something I never noticed until my frustrated photographer at the Epic Titanic Dinner pointed it out to me. The practise is good for conversation sucky for photo taking!. So end my feeble excuses, on to the photos:

{Jenny-Rose Photos} - my photos of the event & my favorites from others

Gloria | photos | (flicker)
Judy | photos | (LJ - locked post)
Kat | photos | (flickr)
Stephanie | photos | (flickr)
Isabella | photos | (flickr)


The Card Trick

The Scarlet Pimpernel

The American Duchess Shoe Shot

The Tale of the Impossible & the Party:

The Tale of the Impossible & the Party: )

jennylafleur: (franciase)

The demon pannier are finished!! These have been the bane of my existence for over 2 weeks now, oy I’m so glad they are done!

I don’t really like pannier. That is to say I love them on other people and in movies but I don’t love wearing that side hoop silhouette. It just doesn’t make me feel amazing the way layers of petticoats, a 18th century bum roll or a Victorian bustle do. However, with the exception of a few late century American sacques just brought to my attention, all my research says some form of side hoop was ALWAYS worn with the robe a la Française. Annoying but true.

So after inspiring myself with a watch through of Slipper &the Rose and Dangerous Liaisons I decided to suck it up and just go with it. My previous experiments with pocket hoops were frustrating thanks to my waist to hip ratio (Kendra had the same issue, which made me feel SO much better about it!) so rather than mess with making it work I decided to make a full hoop version. 'Cause I lost my mind and thought that would be easier and faster. Riiigghhtt!


I used Simplicity 3635 (now sadly out of print) for the pannier of my Queen of the Night as the pattern is practically the same as the ones in Corsets & Crinolines. As nicely as they worked for a dramatic costume they are a little big for restaurants and crowded rooms so I decided to make a smaller pair for my Française Noir. When Megan visited a few years ago I tried on her adorable ruffled pannier and really liked the scale on me. So I measured them and tucked the notes away in case I ever needed them. I be smart!

Only problem with the Simplicity pattern is that it is a one size fits all affair. I had been hoping that it would be an easy cutting it down to the smallest size but no luck. So I debated whether I should size down the Simplicity pattern or re-size one of the scaled patterns in Period Costume for Stage & Screen or Corsets and Crinolines, - there are very few differences between the three patterns. Eventually I decided to use the Simplicity pattern with the books as reference. Looking back I think it would have all been about the same amount of work. Sizing pannier is a pain no matter what you do!


Then the endless math began as I tried to figure out then reconcile the ratios of the Simplicity pattern vs Megan’s measurements. Finally I had some reasonable numbers and started work sizing the pattern down.


The real problem with pannier is that they are like stays – you don’t know if they work until they are practically finished. So after hours of patterning, cutting, sewing (felled seams - we hates them Precious!) and stuffing in reluctant boning, I finally was able to try them on.


They were a hideous tragedy. *sigh* I suppose I was overly optimistic that I could change the pattern so much and have it right on the first go but really it was a mess that I knew will take me days to re-do and fix. To say I was discouraged is an understatement.


After a few days of pouting and feeling sorry for myself I ripped about 60% of my work out and tweaked it. The big changes were to rework the top yolk and redo the dramatic curve of the boning channels at the side seam and change the top piece of boning from one continuous piece to two separate pieces.


The continuous piece was something Hunnisett did in her book and I found several examples of the method so it wasn’t a crazy idea, but it didn’t work for my boning – too stiff perhaps? It was too bad as the separate pieces required a lot more work. I learned on my QotN pannier than simply running a row of stitching at the bottom of the boning. There is too much strain there and mine ripped out. So this time I reinforced it with a piece of bias tape, which had to be finished by hand. Secure but time consuming - blah!


Good thing I'm very accomplished with a seam ripper!


The finished result if far from perfect (that top yoke is still really funky) but it’s wearable and functional – yay!


I spent another day (that I don’t have *sigh*) creating a deep pleated frill at the bottom, This was a suggestion from Jean Hunnisett, she recommended it to weight down the hoop and make it less likely to swing about wildly. It was so much work (starching, pleating, pining and sewing) but I do love pleating striped fabric and it came out looking spectacular. It also does all the practical things Hunnisett mentioned too which is awesome.


Up next was trying it on with some petticoats on top. I tried my standard ruffled under petticoat hoping I could use that (no go!) then my fullest 18th century petticoat – the Diva petticoat. That gave me a good idea of how many panels of fabric I needed for the Petite Pannier under petticoat and the Noir so that was good. I’m a bit concerned that it’s too small at the very top, maybe I went too conservative with it. But I’m going to wear it to the dinner and see how I feel. I can always adjust it before the next time I wear it if I need to.

jennylafleur: (darkdays)

Zee pannier, in all their cramped glory!

The petticoat is coming along. Thanks to [ profile] koshka_the_cat's tutorial, some stealth videos I took of her at CoCo and look through my extant garment files I think I'm getting there. At least it's looking like Katherine's so I can't be too far off. Katherine you are my hero and seriously I owe you one! *hugs*

It's poufing on the very outside pleat in a way that is annoying me. I'm going to try doing the other side of the petticoat a little differently, hiking the end up further on the pannier (I think it's down a little low) and adding pleats to the top seam and see if that helps. Thing is I'm wondering if it's just one of those 18th century things though. Like the poufing at the back of a 18th century sleeve that is actually correct.

Ideally I don't want pleats in the seam, I like the look of the flat top pannier. However in reviewing all my books and images I noticed that all the flat skirt top that I like so much are on the square-ish English pannier, not the sloping French like the one I just made. Huh. So maybe not.

Anyway I think my mock-up has the right amount of fabric for the skirt (3.5 panels of 45") so I estimated the amount I need (5.5 yd), measured the black velveteen in the stash and there is enough for my skirt - yay! I might even be able to squeeze out the bodice, we'll see. If not there is another piece in the stash, it’s just a different dye lot. I don’t think I care. Yay for over-buying fabric for pirate costumes! :>
jennylafleur: (stays)
The pannier are done! Unless I decide I really to need a ruffle at the bottom that is. I'm still pondering. To sum up it was very simple and straightforward but boring and pretty time consuming to make. My hands are sore from cutting and inserting all the boning. I'm icing one wrist as I type... ice is such a wonderful thing...

Right now I'm thinking the pannier look too big but then it could just be that my room is too small. I actually had to rearrange my furniture a little so Narcissa could model them. This is going to be an interesting project to work on!

Next up, the under petticoat - otherwise know as the toile for the outer petticoat...
jennylafleur: (georgian)

I started work on my pannier yesterday.

I was going to work on new 18th century stays first but yesterday, while going through the stash, I discovered that I had over 12 yards of hoop boning (a lot more than I thought was there!). Then I found a sturdy white cotton, some twill tape and hoop connectors also in the stash and decided to just go for it since I had all the supplies I needed.

Per [ profile] koshka_the_cat's example I'm using the Simplicity pattern. So far so good. The real point of this post though is to express the sentiment:

I HATE flat-felled seams!

It's not that they are hard or anything it's just the whole sewing seams twice thing. It's annoying and I get bogged down, bored and un-motivated quickly. French seams are the same. *sigh* I know I'll be happy I did it in the end though.

Okay enough whining, back to it!
jennylafleur: (francaise)
Thanks all for answering my query about pannier and sacques. That's what I thought... I was just hoping I was wrong. Still, perhaps a small pannier won't be too bad.

I've already tried pocket hoops and didn't like them. I also want to avoid the issues Kendra had with the whole hip-waist ratio thing (her saga) so I think I want to go with a full hooped pannier. Besides they would be cool for display.

I'm feeling far to lazy to scale up a pattern so I will use the new Simplicity pattern as my base. I'll have to size it down a bit but the shape looks right. I also have Hunnisett for directions and modifications if I need them. *hugs Hunnisett books*

So I just have to wait on a pattern sale...
jennylafleur: (1731)
So if I make a sacque-back gown does that mean I really have to where/make pannier to be correct? 'Cause I like the look of pannier but they seem so ackward to dance/sit/drive in... :O

I do want to get the right look though. What a brat I am!

July 2014

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