jennylafleur: (victoriana)

I had a truly delightful day yesterday at Kat's Victorian Picnic. Bridget came with me (so happy I had something she could wear that she liked!) which of course made it even better! :>

{Jenny-Rose Photos} - my photos of the event & my favorites from others

Kat | photos | (flicker)
Gloria | photos | (flicker)






Bridget wore my Poe Dress, which looked amazing cute on her. It fit really well except for being a bit short in the skirt and the sleeves, Bridget being my younger but taller sister. So I added a ruffle to the bottom of the skirt and moved the top ruffle on the sleeves to the bottom.

Luckily for me the new skirt ruffle was already cut out, the result of running out of time the last time I wore the dress. The plan was to add a total of 9 ruffles to the bottom of that skirt but I only got two on. That was in 2009 so it felt good to get that lone half-prepped ruffle out of my pending bin.

I still have the fabric for the remaining 6 ruffles although as I was working on it last week I remembered why that hasn’t happened yet. What a pain! This fabric is a rayon-poly-something and while it moves nicely on the body it is slippery and shifty to work with when cut on the bias as these ruffles are. Oy. I still say "someday" to the ruffle madness (it will be such fun to wear!) but probably not someday soon!

I wore my Black & White Bustle. Thanks to the twill interlining with silk taffeta combo that I used (I was silly enough to actually follow pattern directions for once, silly girl) it's definitely a cold weather outfit so I haven't gotten to wear it very often. It was fun to wear it again and it was perfect for this autumn outdoor event.

It also looked awesome with my very un-Victorian RED hair. I do love this hair color - and all the compliments I get on it - but of course the disadvantage is having to start all over with hair pieces.

Ebay was good to me in the form of some cheap Cosplay "dark red" wigs that were a great match. So the wigs were taken apart and I used some of the resulting wefts of hair to assemble and curl into Victorian submission. In the end I was really happy with my hair styling but I do need to refine the pieces a bit. Which is good for you since I'll be taking pictures of the process along the way next time. This time I was too busy trying to figure out what I was doing!

After the drudgery (dramatic sigh) of the shifty ruffles and the seat-of-my-pants hair piece making I decided to have fun by trimming a new hat. This 18th century hat from the National Trust popped up on my Pinterest a couple of weeks ago and I fell in love right away. It then occurred to me that I had a small black straw hat & striped ribbon in the stash and could wear the resulting cuteness with both 1870s and 18th century frocks. Sold!

Originally I was going to use some black & white striped ribbon I have in the stash but when I pulled out my ribbon bin I found this tan and stripe ribbon that is almost an exact match to the original photo. Clearly this hat was meant to be.

The black straw hat blank is very nice quality but rather floppy for my taste so I added some millinery wire to the edge of the brim before covering it with the ribbon.

The pleating along the brim was done by just eye-balling it and pinning it on the brim as I set the pleats to make sure I got the shape right. All of the ribbon was sewn on by hand using a straw needle and silk thread.





I'm really happy with the results! It's a little plainer than I usually go for with my hats (my philosophy being one can't put too much crap on an 18th century hat - I've tried!) but it's charming and will go with so many of my costumes. It helps that so I'm tickled with the fact that I saw a picture on Pinterest and was able to recreate it from my stash on a whim! It totally makes me giggle inside...

jennylafleur: (georgian hat)


The Big Green Hat! I decided to take a small break from some of my other commitments to work on some me stuff this weekend and finished off the Big Green Fun!


The top of the hat partially covered. I used temporary basting spray to position and smooth out the velvet onto the buckram (didn't bother with mull since it was velvet), then stitched in place with silk thread. The brim edge I decided to be meticulous on and used a small buttonhole stitch to make it super sturdy and to finish the edge a bit.


My next step was to finish covering the top. For the crown side I again used temporary basting spray to position and smooth out the velvet. I only used the spray in the center of the piece though, not going up to the edges so I could more easy turn them under and stitch.


I then turned my attention to the under brim. I ripped two 6.5" strips of silk taffeta off the bolt. I lined up the ends and cut a little wedge then stitched it up to make a tube. After I ran multiple gathering stitches I began to line it up and gather the outside brim edge. Once I was happy with it, I stitched it down with a large whip stitch.


The inside brim edge was more of a challenge (hence no pics) as I didn't sew the gathering stitch were the edge actually was. Um opps! I beat it into submission eventually though and stitched it down as best I could, hiding the stitches underneath the crown side as much as possible. I then pinned my velvet bias binding (a scant 1.25" wide) to the outside brim and stitched it on by machine.


The bias binding was then turned under and hand-stitched down on the other side. The last step was to add a little drawstring lining to the inside crown so I can adjust the fit to whatever I'm doing with my hair. Voila - a finished hat!


To say I'm happy with the results would be quite the understatement - I love this hat!


My original idea for the decoration was lots of feathers and ribbons but I'm liking this very simple striped ribbon and buckle combination. I'm going to let it sit of a couple of weeks and then decide what I want to do decoration-wise. Hats are best when you let them stew you know.
jennylafleur: (1790)

Wow, I actually got everything accomplished I wanted to yesterday!

So the ruffles are cut and pressed and ready to be stitched, the gaulle is all cut out and the Big Green Hat (TM)'s velvet is also cut and ready to go.

Today is full of Real Life things so not too much sewing will get done but I'm hoping to get started on those ruffles at least. *looks outside* Well maybe not, it's a bit gloomy out and the commission is all black silk taffeta. Gloom/evening plus black taffeta strains my eyes quickly, even with good lighting. Something about the black plus a sheen I think. If the sun doesn't come out later perhaps I'll work on my gaulle a bit instead. I really want to work on my hat but technically I need the gaulle first. Moo.


I have my camera back so some pics of the buckram hat as is. I don't think you get a good idea of the scale in the pics. Oh well! I used quite a bit of millinery wire in this hat, since it is so oversized and I wanted a certain amount of control to shape it just so. It's also a bit of an experiment to see just how much millenary wire is needed in a large hat and how much is too much - this seemed like a good hat for experimenting on. So there is wire around the crown tip and 4 rows on the brim. I used all 18 gauge wire on this hat.

Since I'm getting all nitty-britty here, I used two layers of single buckram on this hat as well. The crown tip and brim have the two layers zig-zagged together while the crown has stitch-witchery binding the layers.
jennylafleur: (georgian hat)
Yesterday was nice. It was mostly a headache free day and I had a couple of friends over for a "crafty day". Collectively we sewed, quilted, made jewelry, worked on millinery and wove on a lap loom. We also had white wine and sparkling lemonade and of course we chatted and schemed while we worked. It was a really nice, quiet but productive Sunday afternoon. I really do need to do this sort of thing more often!

I worked on my Big Green Hat (TM), getting all the buckram pieces sewn together. It actually looks like a hat now and I'm excited about it. It really is going to be fabulous! No pictures yet though as I gave my camera to Mom and Dad for the weekend.

On today's agenda is to work on my current commission, the hat and my Gaulle. I usually like to work one project at a time but after looking at my calendar this morning (epp!) I need to multitask to get everything done for UTR. So today is a cutting day. I have ruffles to cut for the commission (ruffles!) then I'm going to reward myself with cutting out the fabrics for my hat and Gaulle.
jennylafleur: (georgian hat)

After much research and CADDing I decided on a style of hat for my Ice Cream Jacket. I've also decided on how I want to generally style the outfit for CosCol.


The hat is based on several examples I found in my files, dating from c1786-1790. It's similar to an Elizabethan Tall hat or a Restoration Cavalier hat and seems to be worn mostly with traveling, redingotes or riding habits. I found a couple of examples with structured frocks & jackets, although in fairness some of those might really be the strangely proportioned hats so popular in the late 1780s-1790s that I call a "stovepipe hat". Whatever, I like it with the jacket and I'll then have the perfect chapeau for my redingote - whenever I get around to that. :>


I'm using Lynn McMaster's Tall Georgian Hat as my pattern. This pattern seems to run large (both the X-Large and Medium were big, even taking into account BIG hair) but goes together smoothly. At least it does in the mock-up poster board stage. I'll give a full review when it's finished. :>


The fabrics I'm using are a green velvet (leftovers from my Rohan dress) for the top of the hat and pale chartreuse silk taffeta (leftovers from the IC Jacket). They go together in that really cool, match but not match way I love so much - yay!


As for the styling of the outfit, I really had fun with the bright, almost garish, color combo I wore to Loren's tea but I'm thinking I want something different for CosCol.


I was inspired by an outfit from Amazing Grace and this fashion plate. I'm liking the idea of a cream petticoat with the colored jacket. I'm trying to decide if I really do need to order some cream voile, all my voiles are more white and I think a decided cream would work better with the chartreuse. I really like the textured/stripey fabric from Amazing Grace but haven't found anything similar I can afford.

I'm also kicking around the idea of a black petticoat instead. I have some silk taffeta I could use from the stash. It would be super elegant. A completely different look and not exactly the one I had envisioned for the Ice Cream Social though. I don't know... I need to ponder it a bit more before I make up my mind.

hat fun

Jun. 2nd, 2010 08:26 pm
jennylafleur: (georgian hat)
What better way to celebrate the end of two big projects? Hat fun! So I've just finished the mock-up of the hat to go with my ice cream jacket, which I think I've decided to wear to the ice cream social again. :P

The mock up is WAY too big. I'm now where close to an X-Large apparently but I do like the way this hat pattern is looking. Hee.

*trots off to play with more poster board*
jennylafleur: (pp)
Thanks to all for your support over the regency dress debacle. You are the best! *hugs*


On Monday, after my rant and subsequent meltdown, I had a bit of a brain wave. Last Feb I started a Lizzie inspired sort of fan-front dress. I did a few toiles but couldn't get it to work the way I wanted so I abandoned the project and moved on to other things. Monday's brain wave was to figure out not only a better base pattern to start from but also how to better achieve the sort of slight fan front gathers I wanted.


So I pulled out my bodiced petticoat, made from the lining pattern from the S&S Elegant Lady pattern. I laced up in my newly completed stays and tried it on, noting the changes that would need to be made to create my Lizzie dress.


I love my petticoat but because of the neckline I can only wear it with one of my Regency frocks. That's not cool! It's been my intention since CosCol last year to trim down the neckline and straps so I can use it with my entire Regency wardrobe. Thanks to the tweaks I made in my stays it really doesn't fit anymore however (those new gussets make my bust a bit fuller) so I decided to just take the bodice off and instead add straps (like on [livejournal.com profile] koshka_the_cat's petticoat).


I traced a pattern off the old bodice, cut up a toile and tried it on. Pretty good. My ideas for the shaping of the fan front worked much better than the ones earlier this year. A couple of tweaks, a new master pattern tracing and I had a new day dress to work with. The pics above show the original bodice and the finial master pattern I came up with on top of it so you can see the difference.


I decided that rather than cutting a new bodice for the disaster pink dress I would start completely from scratch - a new fabric for a new dress. I chose to use a fabulous printed linen that I found in the LA garment district a couple of years ago. I've been hoarding it but now was time to use it. I will work on the pink dress when I have time to fiddle with it (and the matching Spencer) and make the outfit I REALLY want it to be.


My week has been insane so I didn't have a chance to work on my frock until yesterday. S came over and we sewed for most of the day. My dress was moving along swimmingly until I got to the sleeves. I had neglected to toile the sleeves on Monday, having been lulled into a false sense of security but the ease of fitting the sleeves on the disaster pink dress. I thought, "No big, I'll just whip up a sleeve toile once the dress is made, tweak the little bit that needs to be tweaked and carry on". Um no. I forgot that sleeves play dirty! Jerks.


So as it stands I have the basic dress nearly finished, only hooks and eyes and a hem left. I think I know the changes that need to be to the sleeve to make it work so hopefully another toile (or two) and I will be okay. *crosses fingers*


I do have fabric and plans picked out for a coordinating hat and Spencer but I don't know if they will get done for tomorrow. The hat maybe, the Spencer no way. Still a girl can dream!
jennylafleur: (victoriana)
First thanks so much for all your support and kind words this week, both about my effigy stays *blushes*, my jacket and my decision not to wear it tomorrow. *hugs* So what is next on my costuming agenda? I have lots of yummy ideas running rampant in my costuming brain right now but the one I'm most excited to actually work on is...


My blue "Eyre" dress! I am *so* jazzed about this project. Before my fabric.com order arrived, I was planning on tweaking my original Poe dress for Poe's Birthday in Jan. When I made the order I was hoping for a royal or electric blue, something kinda obnoxious, for a different project. However after some mental adjustment however I found I loved the moody midnight blue that I received. It immediately screamed Victorian to me and after staring at it for a couple more days it quite clearly said 'I need to be 1840s'.

all about the Eyre dress )

laughing moon corset )

commissioned bonnet )


After the CW bonnet is done I probably should work on a new Regency dress and finish up my 1804 stays for S's tea on the 14th but the Eyre dress is singing a very persuasive and sweet song right now...
jennylafleur: (bonnet)

My Eleanor hat! You can probably tell I had way too much fun with this one! After working on the rather somber Poe bonnet I felt the need to make another frosting hat. Spending most of my recent illness watching Ace of Cakes might have something to do with it too. :P


The color scheme was inspired by this lovely striped cotton voile that [livejournal.com profile] bauhausfrau was kind enough to give me as part of her Great Stash Clean-Out. Can anyone say new Regency day dress?


All the materials came out of the stash - yay! The inside brim is pink silk taffeta. The "pouf" is also pink silk taffeta, interlined with two layers of netting and lined with pink cotton sateen. The brim is the shell pink cotton velvet I bought in NYC last year, and it's trimmed with coral velvet ribbon. The website "précis" for this project can be found here.

The plan is to eventually make a matching Spencer out of the remainder of the velvet. Normally I strive for non matchy-matchyness betwix hats & outfits but this time I think it's going to be fun. Someday I'm like to make a blue or maybe orange hat for this dress too but I don't have those colors in my stash at the moment so for now it's all about the shell pink goodness.

So on to finishing the stays so I can get going on the dress. *sigh* Underwear is never as fun as the frosting.
jennylafleur: (pp)
Feeling better today - dare I say I might finially be on the road to recovery? Antibiotics rock! My voice is back, if a bit wobbly although I'm on my second box of tissues in 2 days, not so fun.

I spent most of the day working on the regency bonnet I started a couple of weeks ago. I'm *this* close to finishing it but I'm ready for bed so I'll finish it up tomoorrow. Pics when it's done!
jennylafleur: (1799)

*sigh* I'm back to feeling blah. I guess I'm not totally over last week's ick. Man - I was feeling good at Loren's farm this weekend too... must have been the company! I was obviously having too much fun to not feel good. Maybe I just overdid it - I was utterly exhausted from the long drive when I got home Sunday. So I've been taking it easy for the last few days in hopes that I can shake whatever this is and feel 100%. I haven't felt like doing much of anything else so I've been working on costuming things in a very CADD manor. With lots of naps. :>


All the cording is done on my stays - yay! It seemed less difficult/time consuming than I remembered, which was nice, but it was fiddly and ripped up my hands a bit, not so nice. I'm just glad it's finished. I have lots of step-by step progress pics of the stays but I'll save those for another post.


While I was at Loren's I worked on my Poe bonnet a bit. I decided that the neck flounce thing (does it have a name?) was too bulky after all. So I took it apart, cut out 2.5" from the center, put it back in and stitched it on the bonnet. Much better! I then sewed on the ribbon ties, ignoring the pattern directions and simply placing them where they seemed to hold the bonnet on my head best. I played around with bonnet trimmings but am feeling uninspired so far. I think I'm going to set it aside for now and wait for my bonnet trimming muse to appear. I don't need it until January anyway so I can wait patiently. :P


Oh I must introduce my newest toy - Hettie! My dear friend Tina made this hat/wig stand for me as a thank you for my help with her Civil War bonnet. Isn't she sweet?! It really does make things like hat trimming and wig styling so much easier when the Styrofoam head it not moving around on you. Think of how much simpler my life would have been making that turban last year! Why "Hettie"? I don't know. It seemed rude to call it an "it" since she did have a head and Hettie seemed the right name when I was pondering.


In true CADD I started on another hat this week, this time a S&S style capote to go with my new 1800 day dress (more on that later). I'm using the pattern from Mela's Costume College class, going for an Eleanor style hat. I'm not being too literal with my inspriation so of course I had to modify the pattern - I can never leave well enough alone not even with Mela!


I'm using buckram from the stash, since I don't have any straw to work with. I don't know how period correct it is to make this style without straw but I'm going to do it anyway. I think its okay... This time the buckram is of the single layer variety. Because I felt it was a little lightweight for the way I abuse my hats, I cut two layers, spray basted them together and used them as a single layer afterwards. (Temp basting spray = love!). I machine zig-zagged 18gauge wire to both edges of the brim and that is as far as I got. I'm trying to decide how big I want to make the mushroom cap part and if I want to line the brim in flannel or not. I'm thinking not at this point based on my covering fabrics and a desire to not have a thick brim.


My next act of CADD was to start work on a covered 18th century flat hat for [livejournal.com profile] bauhausfrau. It's my half of a barter/trade we have going at the moment. *wink* Even though I'm in absolutely no rush for my item, I am in the mood to work on a covered flat hat so I figured I should go for it while the mood is upon me.

I used a craft store straw hat, that ironically I got in a costumer's give away at Loren's last year, taking it apart and refashioning it into the correct size and shape. I then pleated & pinned to get the brim fabric all pinned on and ready for stitching. I don't have thread to match so I had to stop there until I can run to Jo-Anns. I have step-by-step pics of this project too but I'm going to wait until it's finished to post them. 'Cause I'm mean like that.
jennylafleur: (victoriana)

Wanna know what I've been up to lately? Bonnet Madness! )
jennylafleur: (1788)
My "blue" hat now has a fabulously over the top midnight blue velvet pouf on top. *giggles* I'll work on the finishing ribbons and feathers etc later tonight when I'm too tired to sew.

Also my top hat has black dot netting artisically draped on it. I'm thinking it needs a feather too.

Yes and my sewing space and myself are covered in blue fuzz. Dude I thought the velveteen was bad!

Oh and Katherine your board was just delievered.
jennylafleur: (georgian hat)
Ooh, ooh I found the perfect fabric to finish off my blue hat in the stash... I'd forgotten I had it and it's perfect for what I want to do. I was feeling a bit lost with the project but
I'm excited now!!!
jennylafleur: (georgian)

My bit of 18th century frosting!

all the juciy details )


The real frosting: feathers, cockades and ribbons - oh my! It needs more feathers (I'll wait and see what I can find at Fort Fred this year) and ribbons (nice of MJ Trim to have a sale this week!) but so far I'm pleased.

Is it too much? *wicked grin*

And since I am having way too much fun with my millenary wire and have too way many ideas in my head to stop at just one hat this week, I started work on another. This time to go with a blue print dress I'm making for that Fort Fred outing. Only a sneak peak for now - I need the silk organza just I ordered to come in before I can do more with it...

a reward

Feb. 24th, 2009 05:45 pm
jennylafleur: (georgian hat)
I finished off the back boning channels this afternoon. So I'm really at a stand still on the stays until my fabric comes in.

As a reward for being a good girl and working on the stays this week I've been working on some 18th century frosting, otherwise known as hat making. *evil laugh* Oh I'm having way too much fun!! But more on that later... *wink*
jennylafleur: (Default)
Polonaiseville [pol-uh-neyz-vil]
–noun
1. a madness, the irrisisable lust of costumers for stripey polonaise gowns
2. an excuse, used by mad costumers to create ultra floofy, super overdecorated polonaises with matching hats.
3. Also, a craze for Costume Con 27.


Resistance is Futile.
jennylafleur: (Default)

I took (well kept) 651 pics this year. Whew. What kills me is how many pics of costumes around me I didn't get. I was looking through the pics of others this morning going, oh my gosh she was sitting right next to me and I didn't take any pics of her frock! Opps! I think there was a little "overwhelmed with the pretties" going on.

Anyway I've combed them down to my favorite 400 to post. Well some of my favorites I can't post because I've been threatened with death if I do. All I have to say is: BROWNIES! *hee hee*

Jenny-Rose's CC pics

edited to add:
Oh and feel free to snag any CC pic you want for whatever use, credit not neccessary. If you need a hi-rez version of something just let me know!


cut for my CC '08 line up )

Overall this is my favorite CC wardrobe. Everything was lovely, comfy (except for the hot thing) and were things I was very proud to say I'd made. It doesn't get any better than that. :>
jennylafleur: (costume bother)
In the immortal words of [livejournal.com profile] laurenmonkey, my Regency bonnet is made of fail. After two tries I give up. First try looked like a Dr Seuss hat, second time a tacky golfer's cap. Makes the disappointment that I didn't get into Mela's S&S hat class (the ONE class I really, really wanted) all the more crushing because I obliviously can't do this by myself. *bangs head on desk in frustration*

So now I'm trying to decide if pouting for a while will help or if I should just jump into the fray and work on something else. Right now I hate everything I'm working on and want to throw my machine, scissors and bright ideas across the room.

Moo I say - MOO!
jennylafleur: (bonnet)
My yellow/green Regency is now 100% done - all hemmed and trimmed and ready to be worn. Well after a good pressing anyway. Do you know what that means? Something crossed off the list! *does happy dance*

I think I've figured out how to make my $7 Walmart bonnet into something decently Regency (as opposed to Regency-esque) as well. I've found all sorts of ribbons and trimmings I'm digging for that too.

The Pearl is progressing. I've gotten another full motif finished. I have to either do some sequining or design tracing (forgot a flower apparently) before I can do more pearling so I see sequins in my future later today. First off though, my bonnet!

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